Problems with 2003 CC DS Series Cart - A2 Motor Cable

[jsmith294]

Over the weekend I went to use our 2003 CC DS Series cart after it sat for six weeks on a 48 volt "Save A Battery" charger/maintainer. I had to deal with a series of problems. In no particular order:

1. The water level in the batteries was LOW: all the way down to the top of the plates in some cells.
2. When I backed the cart out the garage, the drive system worked fine. After it stopped rolling at the bottom of the ramp, it would no longer move.
3. While trying to remove the plastic motor cover to troubleshoot problem 2, I found the screws were badly corroded.

Three problems are too much for a single thread, so I will describe problem 2 here, and the other problems in separate threads. Relevant background information: The cart is located on a Florida barrier island (North Captiva) at a vacation house. Its duty cycle consists of intense use for about a week, followed by idly sitting in an ill-ventilated garage for periods of 2-4 months. The batteries are 18 months old. The battery cables were replaced at the same time. All of the drive train components are stock. The cart has a GE motor. It is often driven through rainwater puddles that form on the island's unpaved roads. The cart seems to be the slowest on the island, topping out at around 12 mph with a 420 lb load on board (the wife 'n me).

Problem 2 was actually not too difficult to diagnose. The reverse buzzer worked and the solenoid made a nice pronounced click. The limit switches on the F/R switches were not stuck, and they also clicked. Battery cables were dirty but secure. When I began tracing the motor cable, I discovered that the A2 (white) cable was flopping around without a lug. The lug was still attached to its terminal. I could see a quarter inch of green wire strands peeking out from under the wire insulation! For the life of me I could not see any sound copper!

I guess what happened is that 15 years of salt air, water splashing, galvanic effect, etc., corroded the cable completely through, and the suspension bounce that occurred when I rolled down the garage ramp was enough to physically break the remaining tenuous connection. We must have been down to just a couple of sound strands, if that.

I am not thrilled about having the slowest cart on the island, and a motor/controller/cable upgrade is in our 2018 plans. In the meantime, I need to replace or repair the broken cable to get the cart running again. When I check the sponsors' websites, I see that most of the cables offered are battery cables. Any motor cables are offered as part of a comprehensive set.

Here are my questions to the forum's experts (I am off-island, so there is no way for me to personally inspect the cart):

• Is there likely to be enough slack in the A2 cable to allow me to repair it by stripping the insulation back to sound wire, crimping on a new lug and sealing it with shrink wrap? What hole size would I need for the motor stud?
• Are the stock motor cables 6 gauge wire?
• Does anybody sell motor cables individually?
• Is it possible that motor cable corrosion is at least partially responsible for the cart's low speed?

Many thanks for the great site and all of its resources. BGW helps make owning one of these things a lot of fun... even when they're acting up!

[Gregorio]

Bad cables equal greater resistance. That means that energy that should be going to your motor is going into heat. Replace the entire cable. Do not try to salvage it. Try to find a real auto parts store that have a small machine shop or go to a small repair garage. They will be able to make you a cable in a hurry. Otherwise, check with the site sponsors to get a complete set. Honestly, I would make sure whatever you buy is both at least 4AWG and completely tinned copper with tinned lugs.

[Raystar57]

Since this is on an armature stud then there are studs and wires to the brushes that would come with a new brush set.
That would be the best thing to replace. Green corrosion probably has eaten through the brush wires.
If it was on a field stud then that repair is another issue that a motor shop should fix.
I have a 2003 GE motor and my brushes were not that worn when I cleaned them up.

Stock is 6awg cable, upgrade to at least 4awg when you can.

Cartsunlimited, a site sponsor - scottyb should be able to fix you up on cables.

Yes, corroded high resistance cables can limit current and reduce voltage and thus reduce speed.

Since this is a series motor I am not sure on the internal wiring. I have only worked on a sepex.

[theboss20]

ScottyB will make you a replacement cable and he probably knows the proper length...the way I would solve the battery maintainer issue is put it on a timer...the unit does not have to be on 24/7...set the timer for 4 hours a day...it will still keep the batteries charged and cut-down on water use.

[Frizbgolf]

find a local welding shop have them get a piece of #4 wire 6 feet long the lug that goes on the forward/reverse switch is a 1/4" hole and the motor end is 5/16. Or you could have Scotty make it. I replaced all the cables in my 03 and that is the length and configuration I used. For a temporary fix there should be enough cable to just put another 5/16 hole lug on the existing cable. I would replace all the cables if it was me if one is bad chances are the others aren't to far behind it. ScottyB can make you a whole new set and the temp fix will keep you going until you get em.

[Frizbgolf]

On the other note about upgrades for more speed I put a plumquick bandit in my 03 and it brought my cart into the 20MPH range. Didn't have to make any other changes and was the easiest and cheapest upgrade for speed.

[jsmith294]

Originally Posted by Raystar57

Since this is on an armature stud then there are studs and wires to the brushes that would come with a new brush set.
That would be the best thing to replace. Green corrosion probably has eaten through the brush wires.
If it was on a field stud then that repair is another issue that a motor shop should fix.
I have a 2003 GE motor and my brushes were not that worn when I cleaned them up.

Stock is 6awg cable, upgrade to at least 4awg when you can.

Cartsunlimited, a site sponsor - scottyb should be able to fix you up on cables.

Yes, corroded high resistance cables can limit current and reduce voltage and thus reduce speed.

Since this is a series motor I am not sure on the internal wiring. I have only worked on a sepex.

Thanks for the view of the brush assembly and the confirmation on the cable size. I didn't get a good look at the A2 terminal, so I don't know its condition. I hope I can get the nut off without stripping the threads! I also hope the motor is well sealed. If not, a corroded lug is probably the least of my problems!

We do our best to stay out of standing water, but sometimes there is no avoiding it. The cable connections on the front side of the motor get the worst of the splashing, so I hope the cables on the back side are in better condition. The lugs on the non-motor ends of the cables seem to be in good shape (stiff and no outward signs of corrosion). I always assumed that all of my wiring corrosion problems would occur on the battery cables.

One of our problems with this cart is that it is difficult to wash. If just hosed down, it usually will not move until it dries off. I always assumed the wetness was affecting the F/R switch, but I'm beginning to think the problem might have been with the badly corroded A2 lug.

A general problem I'm having with this cart is with the fasteners. Everything wants to fight coming off, and I usually have to resort to grinding. CC seems to have used carbon steel fasteners everywhere that corrode badly. The two torx screws holding the motor cover would not budge, so I will probably need to grind 'em off. I've had to do some suspension work (bushing replacements), and I have replaced the original grade 5 bolts with grade 8, which usually hold up better in corrosive environments. I think I will begin systematically replacing the non structural fasteners with stainless steel.

[jsmith294]

Originally Posted by Frizbgolf

On the other note about upgrades for more speed I put a plumquick bandit in my 03 and it brought my cart into the 20MPH range. Didn't have to make any other changes and was the easiest and cheapest upgrade for speed.

What were you running before the upgrade? Did you have a GE motor? I have been a little hesitant to get our GE motor upgraded because they seem to have a rather poor reputation here on BGW.

By the way, I love the look of the wheels on your car. May I ask where you got them? Did they go on without a lift kit or spacers?

[jsmith294]

Originally Posted by Frizbgolf

find a local welding shop have them get a piece of #4 wire 6 feet long the lug that goes on the forward/reverse switch is a 1/4" hole and the motor end is 5/16. Or you could have Scotty make it. I replaced all the cables in my 03 and that is the length and configuration I used. For a temporary fix there should be enough cable to just put another 5/16 hole lug on the existing cable. I would replace all the cables if it was me if one is bad chances are the others aren't to far behind it. ScottyB can make you a whole new set and the temp fix will keep you going until you get em.

The ultimate upgrade plan for this cart is to replace the existing set of batteries with a Li-ion pack when they die. I would then upgrade everything - cables, batteries, controller, motor - together. I am hoping to get another four years on the current Trojans, giving me some time to save up some money! With a little luck, turnkey conversion kits may come onto the market by the time I'm ready to pull the trigger. The DS platform seems like the Boston Whaler of golf carts: a platform that holds its value well enough to justify repowering. It is lightweight, stable, easy to work on, robust mechanically, and in my opinion, good-looking.

[jsmith294]

Originally Posted by theboss20

ScottyB will make you a replacement cable and he probably knows the proper length...the way I would solve the battery maintainer issue is put it on a timer...the unit does not have to be on 24/7...set the timer for 4 hours a day...it will still keep the batteries charged and cut-down on water use.

Great tip with the timer. I didn't think about accelerated water use. I assumed this "maintainer" would regulate itself. In retrospect, that was not a good decision. I probably came close to ruining my batteries. Worst case scenario, I could have burned down the house! I may just go back to my old approach of fully charging the cart, leaving it unplugged, and phoning a neighbor monthly to ask them to plug it in for 24 hours.