Replacement voltage reducer info 500 Emerge LE

[nickdalzell1]

Got one in that is a complete wreck. Customer got it real cheap which means ugh for me, as obviously it needs tons in repairs, which started with new batteries. I already know the aftermarket motor is shot, throttle sensor is bad, but there is zero power to accessories other than battery meter and backup beeper, which obviously use 48V

There is power going to the reducer, but zero coming out. This reducer seems controlled by a solenoid so I am curious (before I let the smoke out of something attempting this) can any old reducer like a MadJax 30A one work or must I source wherever in China Tomberlin got this one from? It's NOT a bad connection at the 4 pin connector

Tried calling them already but got the Bad Boy treatment (we'll call ya back and never do).

[cltracey02]

You can use almost any voltage reducer in replacement of the factory one. Just wire it in to match where the voltages need to go and use some self-tapping screws to mount it. I hardly ever replace one with the factory one because of cost.
Tomberlin /ParCar are notorious for their "support line" not being very helpful.
Good luck with the cart, I've brought more than I care to count back to life from other shops not being able to repair them. I own 2 myself.

[nickdalzell1]

Around here Tomberlin is more rare than Star or Bad Boy. I actually like how the controller is Curtis (and not Sevcon or the like) and is open to all kinds of customization even on a dealer level 1311 handheld programmer, so that is nice.

But if you needed a wiring harness, key switch, etc good luck as they seem to change them as often as Bad Boy does. Me thinks they might even be part of the same company?

Good to know any reducer will work. I just did not want to fry something important.

As for the condition it pretty much is a wreck. Customer got it for $200 which is never a good sign. They will likely spend over $3K getting it to run. Motor is a D&D aftermarket motor and it has no continuity (the stock motors on these are under powered enough to burn up brushes not sure what sort of aftermarket specs this one had), Charger was in pieces in the trunk, seatbelts are all hacked up, one used to hold the trunk lid down as it is broken off, the reducer is of course shot, batteries were as old as the car was (2010 and flat, busted cases as if left in the cold), when powered on despite no accessories i was able to read the handheld which showed faults for throttle sensor (another common failure item), motor open circuit/field short, low battery volts (likely old from when the old set was there.)

Brake fluid tank has fluid, but of course the brake pedal goes straight to the floor so no brakes just the emergency brake. Paint used to be nice burnt orange but is now faded and has clear coat peeling all over.

[Golf cart guy]

All the parts are available. Here is where the carts really start to turn to crap is when it gets all pieced back together.

D&D motors, never been a fan. Original motor, properly rebuilt, will work for years. Cutting into factory wiring to get the thing to work is juts asking for trouble.

Brakes going to the floor, is common, easy fix. Ive never seen a reducer fail yet, but have seen the pins in the connector not make connection, too many times to count, another easy fix. Get the right motor, done right, will last for years.

Its a 200 dollar cart and your right, put back together correctly will cost money, pieced back together will cost even more money.

If you need a reducer, I have a brand new one sitting on my shelf, but I doubt you need one.

[nickdalzell1]

Oh I verified the connector makes good contact as I get continuity on both sides from pin to mating pin. volts going in, solenoid clicks but nothing comes out, zero accessory power. got battery meter and backup beeper, no speedo no lights no wiper.

I don't even get the arcing when you hook the wires going to it from battery positive. usually I get a scary arc for the reducer getting input power.

We had all kinds of bad luck out of D&D yea, even the company has told us the motor 'must be fake' as reading out the info on it to them turns up nothing on their end.

But we have seen the stock Tomberlin motors go bad, where they're shooting sparks, to another that sent us into the windshield taking off and locked up tight. It made it to 13 MPH and grenade and smoked. Seems to eat the brushes or commentator

[cm2828]

new to this forum so bear with me, please. had a 2010 e-merge that was doing exactly the same thing. don't know what all you have tried, but before you go replacing the reducer, you may want to try this if you haven't already. look under the cart on the drivers side and find the wiring harness just ahead of the seat. open up the harness and look for red wires. there's a point right in there where 3 red wires should all be joined together. on mine, they had come apart under the tape because of water that had been trapped inside the harness. if they are disconnected, reconnect them and you should have full power again. may not help with the motor but it should get everything else working again. good luck and let me know if it works.