EZGO TXT PDS Rebuild

[904sta]

Thanks guys, will pull the fwd/rvrs switch and inspect. Then on down the line. Will keep y’all posted. Appreciate the response guys.


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[orangeman6]

Did you already try the things johnnieb and Scotty recommended? Follow those two and they’ll get you sorted out, guaranteed. If you start bouncing around you’re going to draw this out and those two might figure you don’t want their help. Just my .02.

[904sta]

Originally Posted by orangeman6

Did you already try the things johnnieb and Scotty recommended? Follow those two and they’ll get you sorted out, guaranteed. If you start bouncing around you’re going to draw this out and those two might figure you don’t want their help. Just my .02.

I’ve inspected the magnet, sprayed a little contact cleaner in the plugs. I’m trying to try the “cheaper/free” remedies before ponying up for a new controller. We’ve have two beautiful boat days here in Florida so the golf cart got pushed to the wayside this weekend. Will have an opportunity to work on the cart tomorrow. Nothing but respect for the b’s and hold their opinions to a high standard after reading through this forum for a few months.


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[904sta]

Well I can hear the solenoid click. I’ve searched and can’t find a good write up on how to test the solenoid or the oem Curtis controller. A link to either of these would be greatly appreciated! I am still getting the 1-3 beeps for speed sensor error.


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[JohnnieB]

If the solenoid clicks and the cart runs, but runs slowly after taking off normally, and the controller is telling you it isn't getting a proper signal from the speed sensor (1-3 error code), I suspect you ought to troubleshoot the speed sensor circuit.

With all control cables connected and Run/Tow in Run, push the cart by hand at walking speed. The beeper ought to beep rapidly, the solenoid should click and you should feel some resistance to movement (regen braking). If not, the controller and speed sensor are not communicating.

To check speed sensor signal: Unplug J5 at controller. Connect DVM between J5 Pins 1 (black wire) and 2 (white wire). Push cart and you ought a voltage on meter. The signal on the white wire (speed sensor output) is a series of pulses, 5V to 10V or so in amplitude and there are 4 pulses for each motor revolution, but you cannot see the motor shaft to count them and the motor shaft turns 12.44 time for each tire revolution.

If you see voltage on the white wire when cart is pushed, the speed sensor is most likely working and the controller is bad.

[904sta]

Roger, did the push test and have not gotten the desired results. Will look up a wiring diagram and test your suggestion tomorrow. Thank you again for the response!


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[JohnnieB]

OOOOOps!

Speed sensor won't work when J5 is unplugged.

Connect DVM to J5 Pins 1 & 2 while plugged is (go in from backside of molex plug)

[904sta]

So in tow/run with cover off but battery cables connected and volt meter on the two wires, push the cart? Should the key be on or fwd/reverse switch on any particular setting?


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[JohnnieB]

FWIW, I have an automotive type DMM that has a Tach function and I connected the test leads to the backside of J5 Pins 1 & 2 to measure motor RPM when I was running a stock PDS controller.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by 904sta

So in tow/run with cover off but battery cables connected and volt meter on the two wires, push the cart? Should the key be on or fwd/reverse switch on any particular setting?


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Everything connected, just like you were going to drive the cart. You might have to remove Run/Tow switch from cover to get it to plug in when cover is off.

The controller is alive as long as Run/Tow switch is in RUN and the PDS's walkaway safety feature comes on when cart is rolled in either direction.

FWIW: If you tow/push the cart with another vehicle while Run/Tow in RUN, the walkaway safety will try to keep is from exceeding 2MPH and the end result will be a burnt out motor and controller, possible a fire.