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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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04-11-2019, 09:47 AM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Berry, KY
Posts: 73
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A total head scratcher (For Me Anyways)
Ok all you detectives out there. Breakout your Red Rider Decoder Rings and help me please. I got a 1995 36volt EZGO Series Cart. It's one we use on the farm. I was out in the field when all of a sudden, it just stopped. I would press the Go Pedal and no movement. I could hear the Solenoid click, but was it. We towed it back to the house and I went ahead and charged it, because I had been out there moving cattle with it for a while, and I thought it might be low on a charge. I checked it, with my DVM, after I charged it and I got 38.8 volts. I checked it again 12 hours later and got 38.3 volts. I was ok with that. I checked each battery and was getting 6.3-6.4 on each of them. So, I put it on jack stands and I started my troubleshooting as ScottyB recommends. I turned on the key and checked the battery pack as I pressed the go pedal. nothing changed. The voltage stayed the same 38.3 I checked the positive side of the Solenoid and got the same as the pack. I disconnected the resistor off of the big posts and checked the other side and I had 38.3 volts over there. I figured the Solenoid was bad so I replaced it with a new one I had on hand. Went through the whole sequence again with the same results. I disconnected the battery pack to put the original solenoid back on. After that, I was reaching for my DVM and the positive lead fell and hit a piece of metal. At that time, I could see the display and I saw it flicker. I thought it odd, because the battery pack was disconnected. I touched the metal piece with the positive side and I got a reading of 21.7 volts. I checked the controller side of the solenoid and got the same reading. I have checked in several places and got the same reading, 21.7. I completely disconnected everything off of the positive and negative posts of the battery pack going to the solenoid. I even disconnected my 12 volt accessory battery. I still got that 21.7 volts. Left it over night, thinking maybe it was some residue and it would dissipate overnight. I got up this morning and it was still there and it did not drop. 'm still getting 21.7.
I'm showing a pic of the areas I checked. |
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04-11-2019, 10:45 AM | #2 |
Master of All Things
Join Date: May 2013
Location: West Columbia, Texas
Posts: 17,892
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Re: A total head scratcher (For Me Anyways)
Got my ring out...…
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04-11-2019, 11:03 AM | #3 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: A total head scratcher (For Me Anyways)
Sounds like you are experiencing one of the mysteries created by high input impedance test equipment.
There are no perfect insulators and the plastic cases of your batteries are ever so slightly conductive as is the paint or rust on the battery frame, so there will always be a measurable voltage between the battery pack and the frame if the input impedance of voltmeter being used is high enough. If the batteries and what they were sitting one were absolutely clean, the voltage reading would be in micro-volts or milli-volts, but the air under the seat of a golf cart is acid laden, so the accumulated dirt is fairly conductive and the leakage current can be high enough to produce readings in volts. Analog voltmeter, such as a Simpson 260, has an input impedance of 20kΩ/V and drew more current than the very high resistance leakage current path could provide, so the resulting difference in potential is drawn down to a very low voltage and barely moves the pointer. The input impedance of a DVM is typically 1MΩ, so it only draws 1 micro-amp per volt and it doesn't take much of a leakage current path to supply micro-amps. In addition, it is easier to see a change in numbers than seeing a slight pointer displacement. Connect a 1KΩ (or whatever value have laying around that is less than about 10kΩ) resister in parallel with your DVM's test leads and the "phantom" voltage will disappear. Cleaning the conductive dirt off everything will also help it go away. Can't eliminate it completely, but it can be reduced. -------------- If you disconnect the five interconnecting cables in your battery pack, the voltage will probably change. |
04-11-2019, 01:48 PM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Berry, KY
Posts: 73
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Re: A total head scratcher (For Me Anyways)
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04-11-2019, 01:54 PM | #5 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Berry, KY
Posts: 73
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Re: A total head scratcher (For Me Anyways)
As usual, JohnnieB you were right. I also found the problem, one of the cables had burnt in two on the FNR Switch. The post it was attached to is trying to come off when I try to loosen up the nut. So I figure the FNR Switch is gone. I have an old 1994 Series Cart, I was wondering if the FNR Switches are interchangeable. Any direction going forward?
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04-11-2019, 02:44 PM | #6 |
Gone Mad
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 8,988
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Re: A total head scratcher (For Me Anyways)
You have a choice of a HD FNR like ScottyB sells, or a reversing contactor, also sold by ScottyB. The cart in my sig has held up fine with a HD FNR, but if you want bullet-proof, contacts slamming into each other seems more reliable than contacts rotating into position.
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04-12-2019, 08:20 AM | #7 | |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Berry, KY
Posts: 73
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Re: A total head scratcher (For Me Anyways)
Quote:
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