2014 ezgo rxv rheostat brake switch

[MUDSLINGER250]

Does this switch have a common, normally open and normally closed set of contacts in it. I can't ohm out any 2 points in it just wondering how the contacts are this may be my problem with cart but running after installing 2 new motor brakes and still having issues.

[usgicollector]

Originally Posted by MUDSLINGER250

Does this switch have a common, normally open and normally closed set of contacts in it. I can't ohm out any 2 points in it just wondering how the contacts are this may be my problem with cart but running after installing 2 new motor brakes and still having issues.

Hope this helps. Check switch under floor mat.

[usgicollector]

Clint you might check the sensor while your down there.

[MUDSLINGER250]

I put 2 new brake switches on they didnt change anything cart still lurches in forward and reverse. I left the cart with the shop he said he'll check the new brake I put on to see if it's that, after that all that's left is the controller. His handheld was showing a open brake code. He said it's probably gonna be next week before he gets to it but after throwing parts at it I'll let him see if he can find it.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by MUDSLINGER250

I put 2 new brake switches on they didnt change anything cart still lurches in forward and reverse. I left the cart with the shop he said he'll check the new brake I put on to see if it's that, after that all that's left is the controller. His handheld was showing a open brake code. He said it's probably gonna be next week before he gets to it but after throwing parts at it I'll let him see if he can find it.

An open brake could be at any point in the wiring harness on the +48V side from the fuse, or the - side going back to the controllers plug. A most common point of failure is the run plug, under the bottom of the cupholder assembly. Corrosion can set up in the socket or plug side of that assembly. Both the +48V and - sides of the motor brake circuit flows through that assembly.

Bob

[MUDSLINGER250]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

An open brake could be at any point in the wiring harness on the +48V side from the fuse, or the - side going back to the controllers plug. A most common point of failure is the run plug, under the bottom of the cupholder assembly. Corrosion can set up in the socket or plug side of that assembly. Both the +48V and - sides of the motor brake circuit flows through that assembly.

Bob

I've taken that apart cleaned and looked put it together switched the key wiggled and wiggled connections from there all the way through. Ill find out next week sometime maybe what the cause was after 130 dollars worth of switches that didnt do anything, I'll leave it to them. They said they do the same thing I did start at a point work back to the controller. But when they attach a part they can put it back on the shelf not have to keep it. I did tell them you tested the controller and found nothing wrong with it so he pretty much said it's either low voltage side of controller or the new brake is also not working. If it's another bad brake ill be sure to post the seller's name I bought it from so no one else will buy their brakes off Ebay from them.