2013 Precedent will not move under power

[Jsalty]

So, taking a ride this evening as a family and headed down a hill we like as the cart flys down it the from time to time the over speed break kicks in and slows her down at the bottom.... well tonight the over speed started to kick in and then just gave up and the cart accelerated and rolled up tye other side of the hill.

I placed it in neutral, turned key off, flipped run/tow to tow then back to run, turned key on and out in forward... and nothing but maybe a small clank...

Will not push easy in run, pushes easy in tow (as expected)...

Any ideas on what I broke or how to fix or what to look at?

Thank you in advance..


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[NoleFan4Ever]

It may have overspeed the motor and damage comutator or something else.

Best is to start checking and see what you are missing....

Is there power at the solenoid
Is it closing in (clicking)

If it is, there may be a motor or controller issue we can check for.

[Jsalty]

I rest the OBC as per instructions in the pinned memo for doing so..

The solenoid clicks and put out the voltage

When you depress the accelerator in forward or reverse there is a click as expected but no movement of cart..

After work I can check the voltage to the motor I guess to see what we have there.

What else...



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[NoleFan4Ever]

That tells you the MS in the MCOR is good and the solenoid clicks, but is it transferring voltage across...? Check that with your meter. Then if it is, do this; with the batteries connected, Tow/Run switch in Run; place the black (–) probe on packs main Negative post and the red (+) probe on the yellow wire at the 3-pin connector near the MCOR. (The reading should be approximately ~0.32vdc to ~0.5vdc with the pedal up). Slowly press the Go Pedal and the readings should gradually increase until it reaches ~4.65vdc or more when the pedal is fully pressed. (Anything less than 4.60vdc and you are not reaching full throttle).

If that works correctly, we can test the controller output.

[Jsalty]

We are good on the voltage from pedal... that was a pain in the butt.. I can see I may need to tear this thing apart a good bit... working in gravel outside

Ok, what next?

How do I see if the motor is getting power or controller.


I get 51 volts on the yellow side (output) of the solenoid

And thank you!

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[NoleFan4Ever]

Test the controller output like this: With the key switch On, Run/Tow switch in the Run position, Fwd/Rev rocker switch in the Fwd position (and also have the back jacked up off the ground). Get your DVM and place the black (–) probe at the motor A2 (white wire) and connect the red (+) probe at the motor A1 (green wire) and slowly depress the Go Pedal. When the MCOR closes (clicks), the voltage reading should increase from ~5vdc gradually going up to to approximately ~45-48vdc (could be higher) with the accelerator pedal fully pressed.

[Jsalty]

Thanks. That will be easy, will try this evening after work and let ya know.

I assume if the voltage is good, we have motor issues and if not it's the controller..

If in the motor, could it the speed sensor or is no movement not associated with speed sensor..

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[NoleFan4Ever]

Speed sensor would cause limp mode, but not no-go mode. If the controller appears to be correct, we can test your motor next.

Inspect all the motor cables while you are there to ensure none broke or burned off...

[Jsalty]

Will do, thanks

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[Jsalty]

I get zero volts when performing this step... I assume this drives me to a controller?

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