2013 Precedent will not move under power

[Jsalty]

I am also wondering if the motor could still be bad and I will waste money getting a stick controller as a replacement. If the motor is bad too why would one not just upgrade both?

Not sure I want to dump $1,300 into this cart..

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[Sergio]

Have You already taken a look at the Controller to make sure the Field wires quick connectors did not come loose from the Controller?

[Jsalty]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Have You already taken a look at the Controller to make sure the Field wires quick connectors did not come loose from the Controller?

All wires are tight.

I went down a hill and the regen kicked in the failed all together. The cart speed up under it's own weight and rolled to a stop at top of hill. I assume the overspeed killed the controller and now wondering if the motor also died as my resesrch (forums) said they typically go together in that case...

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[Sergio]

I on purpose simulated what you did when I had the stock controller on my Precedent to see how it behaved.

I took the cart off the charger and immediately drove down hill to about 20mph, released the accelerator and the Regen brake started to raise the battery voltage, it quickly went to 60v and right around 61v the brake action stopped.

I had my foot over the brake and immediately stepped on the brake to slow down so I don't know if the Controller tried to engage 'Dynamic Brake' like the walk-away brake.

If Your controller tried to use dynamic brake at that speed and you allowed it to continue, most likely the Controller could not take the current and heat generated by that process.

You said the cart offers resistance against pushing, did You try pushing it both forwards and backwards to see if there is resistance against both directions?

[Jsalty]

Originally Posted by Sergio

I on purpose simulated what you did when I had the stock controller on my Precedent to see how it behaved.

I took the cart off the charger and immediately drove down hill to about 20mph, released the accelerator and the Regen brake started to raise the battery voltage, it quickly went to 60v and right around 61v the brake action stopped.

I had my foot over the brake and immediately stepped on the brake to slow down so I don't know if the Controller tried to engage 'Dynamic Brake' like the walk-away brake.

If Your controller tried to use dynamic brake at that speed and you allowed it to continue, most likely the Controller could not take the current and heat generated by that process.

You said the cart offers resistance against pushing, did You try pushing it both forwards and backwards to see if there is resistance against both directions?

No, I have not tried backwards in run.

When I take it off the Jack stands I can try that.

From what i read in your note is the controller may be only bad part ... as I did just let it go.. i was ignorant on the function of the regen / breaking at that speed...

Wonder if I can fix the controller...

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[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by Jsalty

I get zero volts when performing this step... I assume this drives me to a controller?

Oh boy'ee. Looks like it......

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by Jsalty

I am also wondering if the motor could still be bad and I will waste money getting a stick controller as a replacement. If the motor is bad too why would one not just upgrade both?

Not sure I want to dump $1,300 into this cart..

Sure you do, although a motor and controller would not cost that much unless you are going to an extreme. If you want test the motor do this Continuity Test first. Place the Run/Tow switch in "Tow", then disconnect the pack and then all the cables from the motor. (Be sure to double wrench every motor post/stud when breaking them lose or you may break them off. Spray them down with penetrating oil prior to doing it).

Get out your DVM and set it to the Continuity setting and:
- Test between A1 and A2 (Beep)
- Test between F1 and F2 (Beep)
- Test between A1 and F1 (No Beep)
- Test between A1 to Motor Case (No Beep)
- Test between F1 to Motor Case (No Beep)

Now flip your meter to Ohms/Resistance and:
- Test between F1 and F2 and you should get 1.0 to 1.6 Ohms (different motors Ohm differently)

If all those are correct as stated above then you can test the motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to F1 and then a jumper from A2 to F2. Connect 12 volts positive to A1/F1 and 12 volts negative to A2/F2. (swap polarities to change motor rotation) You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply as some do and some do not.... And remember that you are only "testing" the motor so you don't want or need to engage it very long.

[Jsalty]

I want to thank everyone for their help in this issue. Seems the motor is ok, for now..

The controller is trashed, I pulled it and took to a golf cart repair center locally, the mounted to a test cart and confirmed it was junk.

They did not have a spare in stock for my application but were willing to send it off for a rebuild.

When I thanked them and informed that I am going with an upgraded platform they said good idea and suggested a few options.

I took their advice and the advice I have found searching around this forum and purchased from a forum sponsor, carts unlimited a 400 amp setup, new cables and new solenoid. I believe this will be the best option as I have room to grow when the motor gives up the smoke and I can make better use of the carts purpose today, moving people and beverages around the camp and sporting Clay ranges.



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[NoleFan4Ever]

Glad you are good to go....And I would have never paid to rebuild what I can purchase new and upgrade for just a little more also....

[Gregorio]

Buy the 500A Alltrax. It is only a few bucks more than the 400 with the optional fan. I regret not doing that.