Navitas Install 2010 RXV

[chvybeatsford]

Need some help fellas.
E-Z-GO RXV 23 48V Danaher controller.

( For those who dont wanna read it all. i wanna know correct way to run resistor , and how to by pass a fried charging port )


Two issues ...

A....Problem is he removed the controller prior so i kinda not sure on the resistor and to me the navitas instructions suck .

So the big coil like resistor has two white wire factory. One to solenoid and from what i see as a little black box.

I think that little black box is not needed with the upgraded controller. Please correct me if im wrong. Im attaching a picture the under the controller is the box im talking about.

I think i need one side the resistor to solenoid and one side to new controller. and remove that box all together. But my concern is that box is plugged in also to other wires in factory harness.



B. After running everthing but that restor im able to get power to controller and see two faults. One the resistor and two the cart thinks its charging . Recently he arched out the charging port and belive it fried something in there. So i would like to confirm what i read about a reed switch may be burnt but u can jump the blue wire to 48v and bypass that issue till he gets the new port in..

[Imapled]

Originally Posted by chvybeatsford

Need some help fellas.
E-Z-GO RXV 23 48V Danaher controller.

Just installed a TAC2.0 600amp in a 2008 RXV.

Originally Posted by chvybeatsford

( For those who don't wanna read it all. I wanna know the correct way to run resistor, and how to bypass a fried charging port )

No problem. I had similar issues and resolved them all.

Originally Posted by chvybeatsford

Two issues ...

A....Problem is he removed the controller prior so i kinda not sure on the resistor and to me the Navitas instructions suck.

You didn't mention what version of the TAC controller (1.0 or 2.0) you were installing. Going to assume based on your post date that you are installing the TAC 2.0 (latest revision).

There is an installation video that may help you:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ljJ8...h8TQwBI6ms5Xw3

Originally Posted by chvybeatsford

So the big coil like resistor has two white wire factory. One to solenoid and from what i see as a little black box.

This is not detailed very well in the documentation or the video. When you remove the Danaher controller you remove the whole thing as it is built into the mounting plate. So yes, that black box and the grey wire connected to the resistor coil disappear. You will need to tape off the end of the grey wire connected to the resistor coil and the plug end that went into the black box on the Danaher controller. They are no longer necessary.

Originally Posted by chvybeatsford

I think that little black box is not needed with the upgraded controller. Please correct me if im wrong. Im attaching a picture the under the controller is the box im talking about.

You are correct. See comments above. Navitas needs to update the install guide to detail that these loose ends are no longer needed.

Originally Posted by chvybeatsford

I think i need one side the resistor to solenoid and one side to new controller. and remove that box all together. But my concern is that box is plugged in also to other wires in factory harness.

As stated above that plug is no longer needed and you should tape it up and zip tie it down.

Originally Posted by chvybeatsford

B. After running everthing but that restor im able to get power to controller and see two faults. One the resistor and two the cart thinks its charging .

Both those faults are valid. You can't operate the cart without the resistor connected. They check for it's presence. Bad things can happen if you don't have one connected and operate the cart. As well, the 30 amp fuse is probably toast in your charge port. I had a similar issue.

With regards to your bad charge port this thread outlines how to repair it. Its a task to do and charge ports are not that expensive to replace. So you have options of either replacing the whole port or doing what this poster did. Both solutions will resolve the charge port issue.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...t-problem.html

Originally Posted by chvybeatsford

Recently he arched out the charging port and belive it fried something in there. So i would like to confirm what i read about a reed switch may be burnt but u can jump the blue wire to 48v and bypass that issue till he gets the new port in..

It isn't a "reed switch" but probably the 30 amp fuse that is buried in the charge port that is toasted. (See thread provided above.)

Here are some photos of my completed and fully working install on a 2008 RXV of the TAC2.0 600amp:

First picture is with the resistor coil mounted:

TAC2.0Installed.jpg

For a better view of the setup, I unmounted the resistor coil so you can see the wire runs better. Not the location of the resistor coil on the CONTROLLER SIDE of the solenoid. That is key to a proper install.

TAC2.0InstalledResistorCoilOut.jpg

If you look hard you can see the taped off the unused plug and the taped off the grey wire that was attached to the resistor in the original configuration as well. Neither of these connections is required in the TAC2.0 installation.

Hope this helps.

PS: I disconnected the tow-run to get a better picture of the install. So you may see the plug is not connected for it. The cover plate is awkward. I made a new box to mount the tow/run switch, put the reverse buzzer into and the fuse attached to the original cover. I tossed the cover plate in the trash.

Cheers,
Impaled

[Imapled]

Also, if you don't have the "dealer app" from Navitas I highly recommend you contact them and get it. Additional tweaking is possible with the dealer app. But, they need to sign you up for access to it.

[chvybeatsford]

I believe it's the 1.0 . I won't be able to get back to cart for a few days. Thanks for the reply and I'll update as this info u provided should help solve issue.

[Imapled]

Originally Posted by chvybeatsford

I believe it's the 1.0 . I won't be able to get back to cart for a few days. Thanks for the reply and I'll update as this info u provided should help solve issue.

The TSX1.0 is a similar install.

Here is the video install for it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JaNwXlXHXjg

Resistor coil setup should be the same setup as the TAC2.0 posted above. Will confirm today though.

Note: I wouldn't use an impact gun like the guy in that video to tighten the wires on the controller. Hand tighten them.

[chvybeatsford]

I watched that video about 20 times. Lol. They don't really say anything about that resistor wire beside install it. So that's why I'm confused. But u letting me know the small black box is no longer needed I now understand better.

Thanks again.

[Imapled]

Originally Posted by chvybeatsford

I watched that video about 20 times. Lol. They don't really say anything about that resistor wire beside install it. So that's why I'm confused. But u letting me know the small black box is no longer needed I now understand better.

Thanks again.

No problem. My 2008 RXV rebuild thread is here with all the details.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1638120

[chvybeatsford]

Originally Posted by Imapled

No problem. My 2008 RXV rebuild thread is here with all the details.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1638120

Thanks allot for the help. Worked like a charm. Better directions than the paperwork they supply.

One last question. There is a grey wire on the resistor coil that I don't see on yours that's on his. It run to the wire harness. For now it works unplugged. Just not sure what it is.

[Imapled]

Originally Posted by chvybeatsford

One last question. There is a grey wire on the resistor coil that I don't see on yours that's on his. It run to the wire harness. For now it works unplugged. Just not sure what it is.

It is on mine. It is just folded back on the wire harness and I taped it up. Hard to see it in the photo. It was attached to the black box that is on the Danaher controller. Mine is just wrapped up. It is a useless cord and should be taped up and zip tied now.

[molfpedal]

Originally Posted by Imapled

Just installed a TAC2.0 600amp in a 2008 RXV.



No problem. I had similar issues and resolved them all.



You didn't mention what version of the TAC controller (1.0 or 2.0) you were installing. Going to assume based on your post date that you are installing the TAC 2.0 (latest revision).

There is an installation video that may help you:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ljJ8...h8TQwBI6ms5Xw3



This is not detailed very well in the documentation or the video. When you remove the Danaher controller you remove the whole thing as it is built into the mounting plate. So yes, that black box and the grey wire connected to the resistor coil disappear. You will need to tape off the end of the grey wire connected to the resistor coil and the plug end that went into the black box on the Danaher controller. They are no longer necessary.



You are correct. See comments above. Navitas needs to update the install guide to detail that these loose ends are no longer needed.



As stated above that plug is no longer needed and you should tape it up and zip tie it down.



Both those faults are valid. You can't operate the cart without the resistor connected. They check for it's presence. Bad things can happen if you don't have one connected and operate the cart. As well, the 30 amp fuse is probably toast in your charge port. I had a similar issue.

With regards to your bad charge port this thread outlines how to repair it. Its a task to do and charge ports are not that expensive to replace. So you have options of either replacing the whole port or doing what this poster did. Both solutions will resolve the charge port issue.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...t-problem.html



It isn't a "reed switch" but probably the 30 amp fuse that is buried in the charge port that is toasted. (See thread provided above.)

Here are some photos of my completed and fully working install on a 2008 RXV of the TAC2.0 600amp:

First picture is with the resistor coil mounted:

Attachment 189762

For a better view of the setup, I unmounted the resistor coil so you can see the wire runs better. Not the location of the resistor coil on the CONTROLLER SIDE of the solenoid. That is key to a proper install.

Attachment 189763

If you look hard you can see the taped off the unused plug and the taped off the grey wire that was attached to the resistor in the original configuration as well. Neither of these connections is required in the TAC2.0 installation.

Hope this helps.

PS: I disconnected the tow-run to get a better picture of the install. So you may see the plug is not connected for it. The cover plate is awkward. I made a new box to mount the tow/run switch, put the reverse buzzer into and the fuse attached to the original cover. I tossed the cover plate in the trash.

Cheers,
Impaled

Just saw this thread and wondered if those with a Navitas Tac 2.0 on an RXV are happy with them after using them for a while? I am thinking of upgrading.