EZGO Brick on Wheels

[tmman]

Hi All,

I purchased a TXT PDS about 4 weeks ago, used. I put some new batteries in it and it ran like a champ for about 1 day. Then, after a friend attempted to move 3 large passengers (not including himself) from a dead stop to a start, up hill... it stopped working. Given the research I did in this forum, I learned that it was the solenoid which was faulty. On top of that, this was common when trying to move a lot of weight with a cart that has a lift kit and larger wheels (I forgot to mention the used cart came with this).

I talked with ScottyB on the side who suggested I move to a larger solenoid, seeing as I eventually wanted to upgrade this guy... I decided to buy the controller at the same time. I wound up with a XCT500PDS and a 400 solenoid.

I got it installed over the course of a long day and hooked the last wire up jst when the sun had finally gone down. I started it up, it began to move and then I heard a faint sound and the cart shut off. I looked under the seat and the diode cable had popped in half (I evidently was not paying attention by day's end and plugged it in backward).

I again reached out to SB who made me aware the cable was on backward. I purchased a new 6A diode and got it hooked up in the right direction this time. Turned the key... nothing. Not even the battery meter is showing anything. Just completely dead.

I am at a loss right now and am curious if someone may be able to help this beginner get the cart working again. Any help is very much appreciated.

[cgtech]

Probably also popped the reed switch in the charger port, it supplies power to all the "enabler circuits" like the keyswitch & stuff. It's common to take out the reed switch (and sometimes the gas pedal switch) when that diode gets hooked up backward. The reed switch can be bypassed if you don't want to replace it (and can assume responsibility for unplugging the charger before driving away. To test reed switch, hook your volt meter black lead to B- of pack & red lead to the small wire coming out of back of charge port (charger must not be plugged in). Should read full pack voltage.

[tmman]

Thanks for the quick reply, I really appreciate it. I found a video that walks me through this and will give it a try in the morning. I will report back here. Once again, thank you very much!

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Probably also popped the reed switch in the charger port, it supplies power to all the "enabler circuits" like the keyswitch & stuff. It's common to take out the reed switch (and sometimes the gas pedal switch) when that diode gets hooked up backward. The reed switch can be bypassed if you don't want to replace it (and can assume responsibility for unplugging the charger before driving away. To test reed switch, hook your volt meter black lead to B- of pack & red lead to the small wire coming out of back of charge port (charger must not be plugged in). Should read full pack voltage.

Though I am not 100% sure it was the culprit, I have seen a couple of carts where diode was put on backwards and had either fried controller or burnt pins in the connector.

Correct me if I am wrong, but I think a diode on backwards creates a dead short across the coil terminals, at least until the diode blows.

[cgtech]

Not necessarily, it usually attacks the reed switch & pedal switch first. I never seen that actually munch a controller.

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Not necessarily, it usually attacks the reed switch & pedal switch first. I never seen that actually munch a controller.

Could be just a coincidence but, with my very limited experience, I have seen controller fail on two different PDS carts with revered diode and never fully understood from a technical/physics standpoint, why.

Looks like the yellow wire becomes hot with key, F/R, R/T on and a backward diode would bypass the coil and put full pack voltage on J1 Pin 6. Then again, it looks like pin 6 was designed for full pack voltage, so that is why I was confused.

In one case (after a 1-1 'bad controller code'), we removed the blue wire from the Sol and connected that SOL terminal straight to main negative (just for testing) and the cart ran (though Sol closed on Key On condition, bypassing pedal switch).

Both times the controller failed it was PDS carts, though I have seen the switches blow on fleet carts so maybe this was just be a coincidence.

NOTE: I am just sharing a similar experience here, anyone reading this ALWAYS put your faith in whatever cgetech says above anything I post.

[scottyb]

This controller has reverse polarity protection. All of the BLUE Alltrax controllers are immune to reverse polarity damage.
The pedal box micro switch is not and will likely need replacing

[R.Boyd]

You need to fix the connector to those large battery cables to where they are in direct contact with the main lugs to the battery/fuse. Put the small terminals on top. Otherwise, you may get a post meltdown. Lots of amps pass through there, so you want the big cable first in line. I would also change out the terminal on that white charging wire. Looks kinda bad.

[scottyb]

And what's up with the wad of electrical tape on the solenoid post?

[tmman]

Hi All,

Thanks for the many replies. I just checked the reed switch and it looks like the previous owner already bypassed it (check the attached photo).

The wad of electrical tape is there because a buddy messed the post up. It needs to be cut off and redone (for the future).

Thoughts on how to further troubleshoot this thing?