My 82 EZ GO "best bang for the buck" refurb progress

[MxChris]

Originally Posted by yurtle

Your wire colors match mine. Make sure you have 36 (or 48 volts) + on both the yellow and red when the key switch is on.

Only thing I'd add is a fuse on your red wire.

I'm 36v, there's a fuse on the reducer. I should probably add an inline fuse coming from the battery though I agree.

Yeah that's the problem, I have nothing coming from the yellow wire. Doesn't matter what position the key is in. If I go straight to the yellow wire coming off the reducer removing my key from the equation it's still no volts, I'm afraid the reducer is bad I just want to be totally sure before I swap it out and waste my time and the sellers time.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by MxChris

I'm 36v, there's a fuse on the reducer. I should probably add an inline fuse coming from the battery though I agree.

Yeah that's the problem, I have nothing coming from the yellow wire. Doesn't matter what position the key is in. If I go straight to the yellow wire coming off the reducer removing my key from the equation it's still no volts, I'm afraid the reducer is bad I just want to be totally sure before I swap it out and waste my time and the sellers time.

You gotta feed it 36 volts or it won't work. Don't assume it's bad.

I'm assuming it's the same as mine, but my yellow wire is the remote on, meaning you can hook it up to a switch, but the switch doesn't have to be capable of handling the full 30 amp load.

[MxChris]

Originally Posted by yurtle

You gotta feed it 36 volts or it won't work. Don't assume it's bad.

I'm assuming it's the same as mine, but my yellow wire is the remote on, meaning you can hook it up to a switch, but the switch doesn't have to be capable of handling the full 30 amp load.

I'm just stating it incorrectly I think. Yellow is hooked up to my key, I'm wired exactly as it's in the diagram that was posted on the previous page. On this reducer incoming is red = 36v +, black = 36v -, outgoing is yellow = 12v - (hooked up to my key switch), green = 12v +.

38v in to the fuse block, if I take my multimeter and touch red and black = 38v, if I touch yellow and green nothing, green and black also nothing. Look over the diagram of my wiring setup and see if anything looks incorrect if you would.

I would assume a quick foolproof way to check the reducer would be to hook up a 12v device with yellow on the - and green on the +, when I do that on a small 12v LED light I have I get nothing. Unless I'm mistaken and these reducers work some odd way I have to say the reducer needs to be swapped out.

I really appreciate the help this is pretty frustrating, about the only thing left to do is electronics and the final buttoning up, can't really do that until I get the radio installed.

[yurtle]

I'm still assuming yours is the same as mine. If your yellow is not the same size as the other wires, it CANNOT be 12 volt OUT. I'm guessing, but you need to find you converter's wiring diagram.

The voltage is reduced from 36 volts to 12, which means the output will be approximately 3 times higher amperage on the 12 volt side than it is on the 36 volt side, ignoring heat losses. Amperage needs fat wires.

Black is common negative for 36 volts in and 12 volts out. Red is 36 volts in positive and green is 12 volts positive out. Yellow needs 36 volts positive from the battery pack to turn on the reducer. If the green is a fatter wire than the yellow,

[mazdawg(Mikey)]

last one i hooked up like that was on a club car but the wires were similar. red to 48v pack voltage, black to pack ground, yellow to 48v switch power, and green was 12v output. same situation but change the 48v to 36v. the yellow isnt an output but rather an input. only the green is the output.

[MxChris]

Originally Posted by yurtle

Yellow needs 36 volts positive from the battery pack to turn on the reducer. If the green is a fatter wire than the yellow,

Green is 1 gauge fatter. Yellow and red are 16 gauge, green and black are 14 gauge. I thought the yellow was a switched negative, sounds like it's a switched positive.

So to test out this reducer can I wire yellow and red together temporarily without doing any damage? I understand it would be "always on", this is just to test and make sure it's me not wiring to the correct switched/key input. I don't want to fry my electronics or the reducer.

This is what I have:

[Sir Nuke]

yes......RED and YELLOW to POSITIVE (+) to the 36v input, BLACK to NEGATIVE (-) 36v, GREEN is POSITIVE (+) 12v and BLACK to NEGATIVE (-) 12v

[yurtle]

Ignore everything I've said. Yours is different. Get a wiring diagram.

EDIT: yours says it's the same as I've been stating.

[MxChris]

Got it, thanks for the help!

Wired yellow to the red and it's fine. My key switch only seems to have negative not positive... I will hook it up to the red permanently and just throw another switch on the dash for the yellow wire. Not as elegant as I was hoping for but whatever.

[mazdawg(Mikey)]

You could wire up a relay and use the ignition as a negative trigger to turn on the relay