Controller or ITS?

[dougmcp]

Is your current controller stock or an aftermarket upgraded amperage model?

[ohwhofarted]

stock

[Andy4639]

Just giving my opinion. From your avatar your riding the cart on the beach a lot. Stock controller bigger tires 4 people and in sand= controller burns up 2 as fast. This is a lot to ask from a stock controller.Riding a cart on the beach is great fun, I do it myself every now and then.
The down side is it will put the cart in strain the whole time. For the cart to run the same on the sand as it does on the street it's pulling twice the amps as it should to run at the given speed.

[ohwhofarted]

No, not necessarily riding on the beach a lot. but a fair share, yes.


Wanna bump this one time. Is there any way I can physically test each component?

[Andy4639]

Have you taken the wires off the micro on the ITS switch and jumped them? See if it runs then. Those micro will burn up and I have seen them where they just fell apart form use.

[ohwhofarted]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

Have you taken the wires off the micro on the ITS switch and jumped them? See if it runs then. Those micro will burn up and I have seen them where they just fell apart form use.

Are you talking about the lines on either side of the ITS?

[Andy4639]

The micro switch beside the ITS switch. The micro switch is out and I have the wires jumped.

[scottyb]

My opinion is a stock controller in your lifted cart with oversized tires and even occasional beach use ..... is doomed to fail. Everything is pointing to controller failure.

I would not sell my customer another stock control for this modified cart.

I'm putting a DCX400 in a modified cart in the morning... they have bought 3 stock controllers before they found me.

[Andy4639]

Here is how I would test the motor and I got this from Nate who in my opinion is the smartest Cart guy alive.
Thanks Nate,

Series Wound Electric Motor Testing

To test an electric series wound (Non-Regen) golf cart motor:
Raise the rear of the golf cart so the rear wheels spin freely, remove all wires from the motor. This electrically isolates the motor from the cart. Put a jumper wire from an "A" terminal to an "S" terminal.
Example: A1 to S1
Then hook a 12V battery or 12V battery charger in the 15+ amp (Start Boost) range to the remaining "A" and "S" terminal.
Example A2 and S2
Polarity is not critical for this test and the motor should turn one way or the other.

Do not run a motor with the front shaft unsupported.
This should only be done long enough to see the motor turn.



Shunt Wound Electric Motor Testing

To bench test a shunt wound motor or regen motor you tie the S1 to A1 and the S2 to A2. This is two separate connections. Take 12V positive and hook to the S1/A1 combination and 12V negative goes to the S2/A2 combination. The motor should spin.

Do not run a motor with the front shaft unsupported. The motor can be tested in the cart also but be sure to raise the rear of the golf cart so the rear wheels spin freely, then remove all existing wires to isolate the motor from the cart.

[ohwhofarted]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

The micro switch beside the ITS switch. The micro switch is out and I have the wires jumped.

if the cart runs then...

if the cart does NOT run, then...

Scottyb, I was looking at a 400a nonprogramable controller. opinion?