2004 Club Car DS won't move

[jawsfree]

I have a 2004 Club Car DS. Out trick or treating and stopped at a friends house. When we left everything was fine and then bam cart stopped. Lights and horn still working fine. I switched everything on and off and it clicked and then shuttered forward briefly, then nothing. There seems to be plenty of power, lights and hazards shinned bright all the way home, we were towed.

Where should I start?

Thanks for your time
Jason

[jawsfree]

Just a quick BUMP. I want to work on it this weekend. Any help would be appreciated.

thanks
Jason

[NoleFan4Ever]

Jason, when you say shutter, it makes me think motor (or motor brushes) or MCOR have failed.

Not sure if yours is series or sepx, but try these 2 tests and one of them will hopefully reveal the culprit.

MCOR Test:
Unplug the two pin connector from the MCOR (potentiometer) and jump out the connector with a paper clip or a small piece of wire. It should be a blue wire and green wire going to the connector. If it runs then, your MCOR has failed.

Continuity and Motor Testing:
If you want test the motor do this Continuity Test first. Place the Run/Tow switch in "Tow", (If you have one) then disconnect the pack and then all the cables from the motor. (Be sure to double wrench every motor post/stud when breaking them lose or you may break them off. Spray them down with penetrating oil prior to doing it). If you have a Series motor some will have S1/S2 in place of F1/F2.

Get out your DVM and set it to the Continuity setting and:
- Test between A1 and A2 (Beep)
- Test between F1 and F2 (Beep)
- Test between A1 and F1 (No Beep)
- Test between A1 to Motor Case (No Beep)
- Test between F1 to Motor Case (No Beep)

If you have a sepex motor, switch your meter to Ohms/Resistance and:
- Test between F1 and F2 and you should get 0.8 to 1.2 Ohms

If all those are correct as stated above then you can test the motor:

To test run a Series motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to S1. Then connect 12 volts positive to A2 and 12 volts negative to S2. You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply for safety as some do and some do not use one....

To test run a Sepex (regen) motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to F1 and then a jumper from A2 to F2. Connect 12 volts positive to A1/F1 and 12 volts negative to A2/F2. You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply for safety as some do and some do not....

And remember that you are only "testing" the motor so you don't want or need to engage it very long.

This could turn out to be as simple as a failed MCOR or a the brushes in the motor are shot.

Good Luck!

[jawsfree]

Thanks for the instructions. Here is what I did

bypassed MCOR, no luck

Continuity check on motor, all good

Serial# AQ419-391262 I also have the tow/run switch.

I'm pretty sure I have the Sepex motor so I jumped A1+F1 and A2+F2 and put 8 volts from one battery using jumper cables the wheel spun slowly but it did spin



So now what to do? ?

[mgray70]

Originally Posted by jawsfree

Thanks for the instructions. Here is what I did

bypassed MCOR, no luck

Continuity check on motor, all good

Serial# AQ419-391262 I also have the tow/run switch.

I'm pretty sure I have the Sepex motor so I jumped A1+F1 and A2+F2 and put 8 volts from one battery using jumper cables the wheel spun slowly but it did spin



So now what to do? ?

That confirms the motor should be ok. Shuttering usually means a voltage drop. Can you get a voltage reading on the battery pack? At rest and while you are trying to go if possible. How old are the batteries. Have you checked the cables?

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

[jsmith294]

Originally Posted by mgray70

That confirms the motor should be ok. Shuttering usually means a voltage drop. Can you get a voltage reading on the battery pack? At rest and while you are trying to go if possible. How old are the batteries. Have you checked the cables?

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

This. Had the same symptoms but on a series cart. The shrink wrap at the lugs can hide corrosion or even breakage. G'luck, and please let us know what the problem actually was.

[Tom47]

Check the main solenoid for a high resistance contact closure, if it is indeed energizing.

From the way it failed quickly, the solenoid may not be closing properly due to previous contact arcing.

With one wheel off the ground, put your volt meter across the large terminals on the solenoid. If the contact is working properly, there will be battery pack voltage across them. Then energize the solenoid and see if the voltage drops to zero as it should.

If there is any voltage reading at all when it is energized, the contact is corroded and the solenoid will need to be replaced. This would indicate there is a high resistance contact closure.

[jawsfree]

I removed the solenoid and bench tested, it is bad. I will order a new one and let you know what happens. Thanks for all the help.


Which one should I order? This one http://www.buggiesunlimited.com/golf...-2000-up)/5722 is just like the one I have or should I upgrade for any reason?
Also should I replace the resistor as well it is reading 242 Ohms.

Jason

[mgray70]

Originally Posted by jawsfree

I removed the solenoid and bench tested, it is bad. I will order a new one and let you know what happens. Thanks for all the help.


Which one should I order? This one http://www.buggiesunlimited.com/golf...-2000-up)/5722 is just like the one I have or should I upgrade for any reason?
Also should I replace the resistor as well it is reading 242 Ohms.

Jason

Resistor is good. We prefer using site sponsors whenever possible. It is always better to go a little better than stock on a solenoid. Especially if it's lifted or has a rear seat on it.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by jawsfree

I removed the solenoid and bench tested, it is bad. I will order a new one and let you know what happens. Thanks for all the help.


Which one should I order? This one http://www.buggiesunlimited.com/golf...-2000-up)/5722 is just like the one I have or should I upgrade for any reason?
Also should I replace the resistor as well it is reading 242 Ohms.

Jason

Yes, the resistor is good as mgray70 commented.

Let Scotty B at Carts Unlimited or David Hicks at Revolution know what you have in the way of controller and motor stock and planned upgrades. They will size the correct solenoid for it.

Scotty B sold me a heavy duty 200 amp solenoid for $66.00. This thing is a beast!