New member here with a electrical prob

[NoleFan4Ever]

We're not giving up, I have been busy with mtgs (and if you are reading the posts there are 3 threads running with similar problems and 2 of you have Regen 2 carts - having to keep from getting my wires crossed with helping y'all - )

One thing we need to be sure is when we are talking about items on your cart they are reflective (nomenclature wise) of what is on the drawings. On Board Computer = OBC, Rectangular box with the cables attached = Controller, etc. or we could end up telling you the wrong thing based on your responses to our queries.

So back to the main solenoid (as pictured), with the key On, rocker switch in Fwd, and Go Pedal depressed:
1- Do you here a click under the seat from the Potentiometer?
(If yes, go to 2, if no, let us know)
2- Do you hear a click at the Main Solenoid?
(If yes, go to 3, if no, let us know)
3- Take your DVM and see if you have full pack voltage on the large post on the drivers side with the yellow cable attached to it.
(If yes, lets talk more, if no, let us know)

[Jon1996]

Yes my potentiometer micro switch is good, no click from main solenoid and no power on yellow cable on left of solenoid but on the right I have pack voltage

[NoleFan4Ever]

There is a solid Blue small wire on one side of the main solenoid and a blue with white stripe on the other. These are the positive and negative activation wires for the energizing circuit of the coil.

(cart jacked up, key on, rocker switch in Fwd, and pedal depressed)
Take your DVM and place the red lead on the solid blue wire and the black lead on the main pack negative. You should get 48vdc

Next, take your DVM and place the black lead on the blue/white stripe wire and the red lead on the main pack positive. You should get 48vdc

If you do have both of the above, your solenoid is bad. If you do not have both, let me know which one you don't.

[Jon1996]

I’m not getting 48 on the small wire but one of them is a ground, if I bypass the controller I get 48v on all 4 post and the backup alarm sounds

[Rtolle]

I have a 1985 Club Car DS I am restoring. I had to rewire the car!! My question is, Is the ignition switch wired to 12v or 36v.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by Jon1996

I’m not getting 48 on the small wire but one of them is a ground, if I bypass the controller I get 48v on all 4 post and the backup alarm sounds

How did you bypass the controller??

I am being specific with instructions to help you, that I need you to follow, I need specific answers from you to help you determine for sure what is or is not working correctly.

Answer these independently in regards to your main solenoid (with cart jacked up, key on, rocker switch in Fwd, and pedal depressed):
Take your DVM and place the red lead on the solid blue wire and the black lead on the main pack negative. You should get 48vdc (Yes or No)

Next, take your DVM and place the black lead on the blue/white stripe wire and the red lead on the main pack positive. You should get 48vdc (Yes or No)

If you do have both of the above, your solenoid is bad. If you do not have both, let me know which one you don't as you have lost either the Positive activation from the throttle or the Negative activation from your controller.

[Jon1996]

I bypass the controller by connecting the white and blue wires together at the 6 pin plug

No on the first

Yes on the second

[NoleFan4Ever]

That is not bypassing the controller. As I explained to you earlier, use your drawing for a reference so we use the same or similar terminology. The white and blue wires are for bypassing the lockout from the OBC - that is not bypassing the controller.

Your test results tell us you are not getting your positive activation so you need to trace backwards from that wire and see where you are loosing the voltage. Use the drawing as a reference. It could be at the microswitch in the potentiometer or if no power there it could be further back at the key switch or something in Fwd/Rev rocker switch.

You also could have a bad wire in the harness, so another good reason to trace the wires back and see....

[Jon1996]

I tested the keyswitch and it has power on both sides

The micro switch in the potentiometer is sending voltage out

I traced the wire from the micro switch into the controller(silver box)

I do not have that coming back out of the controller

[NoleFan4Ever]

There should be a bullet fuse in the red/white wire. That wire is coming of the solenoid side with the red cable on it from your pack positive. That wire runs over to the OBC. I do not think that will be the issue, but check the fuse just in case.

What did you find when you traced the blue wire on the solenoid backwards? You need to see where it is losing the power as it connects to a socket weld in the harness and power comes to the socket weld from the rocker switch when selected. (and yes, controller may be bad, just trying to be sure it is not something overlooked)

And after that you are at a point you can jump across the main solenoid which will then fully power up the controller to test it. Be very careful if you do that as you are bypassing all the permissives and manually engaging it with the jumper. And I would only have the Go Pedal slightly depressed so you are minimizing the current draw.