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Old 12-29-2018, 12:33 AM   #11
tjamaco
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Default Re: How can I tell if this free cart is worth rebuilding?

Quote:
Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever View Post
How much is it???

Series or Sepex cart?
Mooncarter says it's sepex.
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Old 12-29-2018, 12:34 AM   #12
Mooncarter
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Default Re: How can I tell if this free cart is worth rebuilding?

What aluminum body? Can you post a photo of what you have.
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Old 12-29-2018, 12:38 AM   #13
tjamaco
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Default Re: How can I tell if this free cart is worth rebuilding?

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Originally Posted by Mooncarter View Post
What aluminum body? Can you post a photo of what you have.
The dump body is alum with a drop tailgate. No pix yet.
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Old 12-29-2018, 12:39 AM   #14
Mooncarter
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Default Re: How can I tell if this free cart is worth rebuilding?

Does it look like the cart in my avatar, without the cab enclosure?
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Old 12-29-2018, 12:39 AM   #15
NoleFan4Ever
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Default Re: How can I tell if this free cart is worth rebuilding?

If it was free you are good to go.
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Old 12-29-2018, 12:42 AM   #16
NoleFan4Ever
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Default Re: How can I tell if this free cart is worth rebuilding?

Continuity and Motor Testing:
If you want test the motor do this Continuity Test first. Place the Run/Tow switch in "Tow", then disconnect the pack and then all the cables from the motor. (Be sure to double wrench every motor post/stud when breaking them lose or you may break them off. Spray them down with penetrating oil prior to doing it).

Get out your DVM and set it to the Continuity setting and:
- Test between A1 and A2 (Beep)
- Test between F1 and F2 (Beep)
- Test between A1 and F1 (No Beep)
- Test between A1 to Motor Case (No Beep)
- Test between F1 to Motor Case (No Beep)

Now flip your meter to Ohms/Resistance and:
- Test between F1 and F2 and you should get 1.0 to 1.6 Ohms (Sepex only)

If all those are correct as stated above then you can test the motor:

To test run a Sepex (regen) motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to F1 and then a jumper from A2 to F2. Connect 12 volts positive to A1/F1 and 12 volts negative to A2/F2. (swap polarities to change motor rotation) You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply as some do and some do not.... And remember that you are only "testing" the motor so you don't want or need to engage it very long.
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Old 12-29-2018, 12:42 AM   #17
NoleFan4Ever
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Default Re: How can I tell if this free cart is worth rebuilding?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tjamaco View Post
Mooncarter says it's sepex.
He is correct....
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Old 12-29-2018, 12:45 AM   #18
tjamaco
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Default Re: How can I tell if this free cart is worth rebuilding?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mooncarter View Post
Does it look like the cart in my avatar, without the cab enclosure?
Similar but yours is a lot nicer. This one pivots on a foot rest kind of rack that is attached to the back of the frame.
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Old 12-29-2018, 12:47 AM   #19
Mooncarter
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Default Re: How can I tell if this free cart is worth rebuilding?

Thanks for the compliment. Still not sure what you have. But, the test above Nole told you to do applies either way. DS or Carryall.
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Old 12-29-2018, 12:48 AM   #20
tjamaco
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Default Re: How can I tell if this free cart is worth rebuilding?

Quote:
Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever View Post
Continuity and Motor Testing:
If you want test the motor do this Continuity Test first. Place the Run/Tow switch in "Tow", then disconnect the pack and then all the cables from the motor. (Be sure to double wrench every motor post/stud when breaking them lose or you may break them off. Spray them down with penetrating oil prior to doing it).

Get out your DVM and set it to the Continuity setting and:
- Test between A1 and A2 (Beep)
- Test between F1 and F2 (Beep)
- Test between A1 and F1 (No Beep)
- Test between A1 to Motor Case (No Beep)
- Test between F1 to Motor Case (No Beep)

Now flip your meter to Ohms/Resistance and:
- Test between F1 and F2 and you should get 1.0 to 1.6 Ohms (Sepex only)

If all those are correct as stated above then you can test the motor:

To test run a Sepex (regen) motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to F1 and then a jumper from A2 to F2. Connect 12 volts positive to A1/F1 and 12 volts negative to A2/F2. (swap polarities to change motor rotation) You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply as some do and some do not.... And remember that you are only "testing" the motor so you don't want or need to engage it very long.
Superb. This is just the information and knowhow that I was seeking. Thank you so much for your help.
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