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Old 09-27-2019, 07:53 PM   #1
Jseal
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Default Precedent won’t move V.2

Solenoid shows no voltage drop when closed,
Key on, run-tow swiitch in “run”, forward selected, one wheel off the ground...

Voltage at motor shows 41 volts without go pedal depressed at all, then when solenoid closes, meter goes straight to 49 volts, throughout entire pedal travel.... any wise men have an idea����
I am thinking the controller is toast, and hopefully not the motor...

Last edited by Jseal; 09-27-2019 at 08:02 PM.. Reason: Add info
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Old 09-27-2019, 08:32 PM   #2
NoleFan4Ever
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Default Re: Precedent won’t move V.2

Get your DVM and place the black (–) probe at the motor A2 (white wire) and connect the red (+) probe at the motor A1 (green wire) and slowly depress the Go Pedal. When the MCOR closes (clicks), the voltage reading should increase from ~5vdc gradually going up to to approximately ~45-48vdc. What are you seeing?
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Old 09-27-2019, 09:47 PM   #3
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Default Re: Precedent won’t move V.2

Everything I saw is in my post... I had the probes where you mentioned...
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Old 09-27-2019, 10:41 PM   #4
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Default Re: Precedent won’t move V.2

If you want test the motor do this Continuity Test first. Place the Run/Tow switch in "Tow", then disconnect the pack and then all the cables from the motor. (Be sure to double wrench every motor post/stud when breaking them lose or you may break them off. Spray them down with penetrating oil prior to doing it).

Get out your DVM and set it to the Continuity setting and:
- Test between A1 and A2 (Beep)
- Test between F1 and F2 (Beep)
- Test between A1 and F1 (No Beep)
- Test between A1 to Motor Case (No Beep)
- Test between F1 to Motor Case (No Beep)

Now flip your meter to Ohms/Resistance and:
- Test between F1 and F2 and you should get 1.0 to 1.6 Ohms

If all those are correct as stated above then you can test the motor:

To test run a Sepex (regen) motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to F1 and then a jumper from A2 to F2. Connect 12 volts positive to A1/F1 and 12 volts negative to A2/F2. (swap F1/F2 jumpers to change motor rotation) You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply as some do and some do not.... And remember that you are only "testing" the motor so you don't want or need to engage it very long.
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Old 09-28-2019, 07:14 AM   #5
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Default Re: Precedent won’t move V.2

My penetrating oil of choice has always been PB Blaster, don't ask me why, probably something from my childhood. it is a colorful can!
Disconnect all power before spraying. Never seen it happen but i bet a flash could happen.
We have taken Open end wrenches and made than thinner on the bench grinder to get them to hold onto the motor stud nut.
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Old 09-28-2019, 10:52 AM   #6
Jseal
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Default Re: Precedent won’t move V.2

Quote:
Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever View Post
If you want test the motor do this Continuity Test first. Place the Run/Tow switch in "Tow", then disconnect the pack and then all the cables from the motor. (Be sure to double wrench every motor post/stud when breaking them lose or you may break them off. Spray them down with penetrating oil prior to doing it).

Get out your DVM and set it to the Continuity setting and:
- Test between A1 and A2 (Beep)
- Test between F1 and F2 (Beep)
- Test between A1 and F1 (No Beep)
- Test between A1 to Motor Case (No Beep)
- Test between F1 to Motor Case (No Beep)

Now flip your meter to Ohms/Resistance and:
- Test between F1 and F2 and you should get 1.0 to 1.6 Ohms

If all those are correct as stated above then you can test the motor:

To test run a Sepex (regen) motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to F1 and then a jumper from A2 to F2. Connect 12 volts positive to A1/F1 and 12 volts negative to A2/F2. (swap F1/F2 jumpers to change motor rotation) You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply as some do and some do not.... And remember that you are only "testing" the motor so you don't want or need to engage it very long.
When you mention disconnecting all the cables, I understand the four stud attached cables, and should I include the plug/receptacle set that feeds into the end of the motor?
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Old 09-28-2019, 12:17 PM   #7
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Default Re: Precedent won’t move V.2

Upon testing the motor as you described, A1 to A2 is open... no beep!, everything else is as you mentioned.... I am assuming from this , the motor is no good? By the way, this testing was done with the 3-wire plug disconnected.
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Old 09-28-2019, 12:26 PM   #8
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Default Re: Precedent won’t move V.2

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jseal View Post
Upon testing the motor as you described, A1 to A2 is open... no beep!, everything else is as you mentioned.... I am assuming from this , the motor is no good? By the way, this testing was done with the 3-wire plug disconnected.
The 3-wire plug is your speed sensor and has no bearing on these tests. Your winding is open and thus a bad motor.
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Old 09-28-2019, 01:10 PM   #9
Jseal
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Default Re: Precedent won’t move V.2

Thankyou for your help... very much appreciated indeed... so now I hope the controller isn’t bad as well... this “free” cart is now looking expensive ;) ;)
So, do I upgrade motor, controller, etc, and really make it something I never knew I wanted...
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Old 09-28-2019, 04:59 PM   #10
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Default Re: Precedent won’t move V.2

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jseal View Post
Thankyou for your help... very much appreciated indeed... so now I hope the controller isn’t bad as well... this “free” cart is now looking expensive ;) ;)
So, do I upgrade motor, controller, etc, and really make it something I never knew I wanted...
That is a matter of Dollars and Sense.... (How many Dollars make good Sense....)

If you got a Precedent for free, I would say you are way below the line right now...

A motor is most likely all you need, but a Motor, Controller, Solenoid, and Cables will make that cart a SCREAMER!!

Look here for some ideas... https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/u...ages-precedent
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