1997 Club Car DS electrical issues - shorted during OBC stud install

[networkjack]

I fried something trying to install the stud through the obc. I think I over tightened it or grounded it out. Heard a sizzle sound and could smell the hot electrical smell. What do you think it was? I don't mind bypassing the obc and getting an auto charger if needed. I have been trying to do some trouble shooting. I found that if I jump a wire from the primary positive in the battery bank to the small positive stud on the solenoid that has the red and the white/black striped, wire the solenoid will click and engage then I can press the accelerator and it will go even if the key is not turned on.

I have a multimeter and can test components as needed. I am guessing it is not the throttle since it works when I jump the positive side of the solenoid. I have checked the fuses in the little box mounted behind the battery box. I am wondering if it is the key switch or the contact block behind the dash to the right of the key switch it has a round component at the bottom of it that the red wire from the small positive post. The black/white wire goes to a micro switch on the back of the F/R arm.

Weather it maters or not I bypassed the obc by running a cable from the small negative post on the solenoid to the primary negative in the battery bank as part of troubleshooting.

The blue wire, one I added as jumper, is the one from the positive that will engage the solenoid.

Any ideas where to start from here?

frist ...






installing OBC stud i assume you went to larger cables ... i would start with a check of your wiring , make sure you got the wiring correct , we see alot of miss wiring
95 to 03 48V color coded diagram (factory colors)

[networkjack]

Thanks for the quick reply Crash Test Dummy...

Yep wiring was correct I had been driving it for months with the larger cable going around the OBC. Of course it didn't charge correctly but I installed solar panels to make up for this which work great and keep it charged. However when I park it in the shed I need to hook it up to the charger because there is no sunlight. I tried putting the orginal cable back through the OBC but it still didn't charge quite right. It would cut off and not come back on etc. So I decided to do one last ditch effort of putting a brass stud through the OBC and connecting the bigger cables on each side. After connecting I turned on the key and think pressed the accelerator can't remember if I pressed it or if it did it right when I turned the key but that's when I heard the sizzle fizzle sound and smelt the burn. :( I noticed there is a red cable that goes up into a wiring block under the back of the dash next to the key switch it has a little round thing on the bottom of the wiring spade connector block that the red cable from the solenoid goes to. I am wondering if that went bad and is causing the solenoid to not get power from the key switch. It just doesn't do anything when I turn on the key and press the accelerator.

Side note the Solar Panels are still working and charging the batteries thank goodness because it is sitting outside. I check the receptical fuse thing and broke it while trying to take it off to check it closer so I just wired it together bypassing the big lead metal fuse with the little plastic cover over it. I figured I can fix that later. Since I have the solar panels which just connect to the primary positive and primary secondary so they are not really in the mix once I get it fixed I may just buy an onboard auto charger that wires directly to the primary positive and primary negative just to do away with the OBC all together.

I don't want to hot wire the solenoid bypassing the key switch to solenoid wiring for fear it might burn up something else or damage the solenoid not to mention someone could just jump in and take off. I rekeyed it with a unique key back when I got it about a year ago.

Thanks for any help you or anyone else can provide.

Thoughts?

Originally Posted by networkjack

I tried putting the orginal cable back through the OBC but it still didn't charge quite right. It would cut off and not come back on etc. So I decided to do one last ditch effort of putting a brass stud through the OBC and connecting the bigger cables on each side.

after installing original cable or stud you need to reset OBC

stud needs to be insulted
from scottyB

[networkjack]

Ell the stud wasn't insulated. I assume I fried the obc and just want to bypass it all together. I have already took the stud out and ran the large cable back around the obc like it was.

Not sure what to do now. With an auto charger I will not need the obc.

Also I noticed I don't see the spade connector block that is original to my cart in the diagram. I might be able to take a pic of it and upload here.

Wish I had just bought the stud kit from ScottyB. I have purchased many other items from him. My larger cable kit didn't come with a obc stud.

James

[networkjack]

Doubt there is any resetting the obc at this point not to mention I have had the batteries unhooked for a week at a time while the solar panels were still charging so I would guess if it had been the obc that needed resetting it probably reset from lake of power after such a long period of time.

test OBC

first do the OBC reset

Resetting the Club Car On board computer - reset the OBC

To reset the OBC the following must be done in this order:

If no Tow/Run Switch then skip that step

• Key Switch to Off
• Forward/Reverse to Neutral
• Tow/Run Switch to Tow
• Disconnect the Battery NEGATIVE (–) wire from the Battery Minus terminal on the battery pack.
• Put the Tow/Run to Run
• Forward/Reverse Switch to Reverse
• Key Switch to On
• Press the throttle pedal down (hold it to the floor)

The reverse buzzer will sound (sometimes) and go off in about 30 seconds.
Leave the cart like that for 5 min to cause the OBC to reset.
After 5 min release the throttle pedal

To reconnect the OBC back into the system:
• Key Switch to Off
• Forward/Reverse Switch to Neutral
• Tow/Run switch to Tow
• Reconnect the Batt – wire to the battery minus
terminal on the battery pack.
• Tow/Run switch to Run
• Key Switch to ON

plug cart into charger ... if it charges let it runn till it shuts offf ... if it does not start then do an OBC by-pass


to by pass OCB
DO AT YOUR OWN RISK.…do not attempt unless you are familiar with electricity and electronics!
There are two ways to force the charger to turn on regardless of the OBC.

The first method is to disconnect the cart’s gray wire at the fuse near the charger receptacle. Then using a jumper wire, connect the receptacle side of the fused connector to the cart’s negative battery terminal. This will energize the charger’s 48V relay. If the charger doesn’t come on, it could be bad connections, wiring or charger relay.

The second method is to open the charger and remove the 120V wires from the relay and jump these together. This totally bypasses the relay and the OBC wire.


(If charger comes on but the charger ammeter shows 0 amps, check the fuse at the charging receptacle under the clear plastic cover.)

Both of these methods should both be temporary measures for troubleshooting, or as an emergency method of charging the batteries when they have been discharged so far that the OBC will not charge them.

The OBC provides the optimum method of charging the cart’s batteries. If the OBC is bad, it should be replaced

[networkjack]

I have bypassed the shut off on the charger before. My problem is not that it won't charge it is that it will not drive. The solenoid is not engaging I am guessing because the obc is fried or something else.

Any ideas out there.

could of messed up solenoid or diode / resistor

test solenoid

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. remove all wires, restorer , and diode from solenoid
test 1
Connect an volt meter, set on continuity, place on the two large terminal studs. The meter should indicate no continuity, Replace the solenoid if continuity is present.
test 2
Using jumper wires attach from main positive and main negative of battery pack to the two small solenoid studs, polarity is not important. You should hear a click as the solenoid engages, and the meter should indicate continuity on the two large terminals. Replace the solenoid if continuity is not present.
if solenoid clicks rapidly solenoid is bad

[jjance]

Since I have the solar panels which just connect to the primary positive and primary secondary so they are not really in the mix

If you don't have a solar charge controller the solar panels will discharge your your batteries when the sun isn't shining on them. That may be what you heard sizzle when you connected 48V to a 12v panel.