Power Kit came in for G9, Have a few Questions?

[BigDav]

I started the install on my Power Kit from Tom at Cart Parts Plus today and I found some items with a lot of wear. On the secondary inner plate and the bushings on the ramps.
Do I need to replace the inner clutch plate? What about the ramp bushings?
This thing is bone dry of grease and doesn't look like the previous owner ever did anything but ride it.
See next post for pics.

[BigDav]

See Pics below.






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[NO NO NO E-Z-GO!]

I'm no Yamaha expert, but I can tell you that you need new ramp buttoms.

Also, clean that thing up in an oil-eating agent before you put it back, then put new, fresh grease in it.

[BigDav]

NoNo,
Thanks for the quick reply.
What cleaner would you suggest?
I was just looking at a parts diagram and the parts don't seem to be very expensive but as a whole this is getting pricey.
Should I pull the front clutch apart and check it for any damage? I am sure it have never been greased either.

[NO NO NO E-Z-GO!]

I'll leave the judgement any further to a Yamaha guy, I don't want to tell you wrong.

Just my personal opinion here, I wouldn't worry about replacing anything more than a bushing and a set of buttons.

I use Oil Eater but it takes a while. Eagle One Etching Mag Cleaner is great for this and fast too. It's about 6 bucks a bottle though.

[spriddle]

Almost time for new ramp shoes. Everything else looks normal and should be ok. Be sure to grease the inside of that bushing on the sheave. You can clean any parts you need to with carb. or brake cleaner (just be careful not to soak the bushing in the sheave).

[spriddle]

Here's some instructions just in case:

Yamaha Torque Kit Installation:

Note: Be sure to use safety stands under the cart frame/axle to help brace the cart while the cart is lifted off the floor/ground

Tools Needed:
1. rubber hammer
2. regular hammer
3. half inch or three eights drive with 17 mm socket
4. 2x4
5. piece of wood cut into a wedge shape
6. good ratcheting tie down strap
7. small amount of grease
8. penetrating oil
9. steering wheel/harmonic balancer puller (maybe)
10. Safety Stands or equivalent for bracing cart
Installation:
1. Lift the cart from the rear axle and place some stands under it (safety first and for most), also place something in front of the front wheels to keep it from moving
2. Remove drivers rear tire and belt
3. Take the wedge of wood and wedge it between the rear frame and both outer edges of rear clutch assembly (bottom towards the top) lightly hammer in place
4. Remove the 17 mm nut on the outer sheave
5. Spray the shaft with some penetrating oil and remove the outer sheave
Note: this can be a very difficult job and you may have to use the steering wheel/harmonic balancer puller
There is a half moon key that locks the position of the outer sheave to the shaft and can cause the outer sheave to become frozen on the shaft making it very difficult to remove
6. Take the 2x4 and light pry between the two sheaves to remove the outer sheave
7. Remove the half moon key and throw away plastic washer
8. Remove inner sheave, spring, and coupler/housing
9. Remove the c-clip on back of shaft
10. Install the new washer/spacer with the hollow part toward the inside of the shaft, flat part facing you
11. Reinstall the coupler/housing
12. Install the new spring
13. Lightly grease the shaft and inner bushing on the inner sheave
14. Reinstall the inner sheave
Note: very high-tension spring
Take the ratcheting tie down strap and place it around the inner sheave, top of shaft, and around the passenger side and rear frame (make sure you can easily get to the ratchet part of the tie down and that it is very secure)
Slowly start to tighten the tie down (you will have to at times move the inner sheave back and forth or up and down and push on it to keep it from sticking sideways on the shaft)
15. Reinstall the half moon key and outer sheave
16. Reinstall the nut hand tight and remove the tie down strap
17. Place the wedge of wood between frame and both outer edges of sheaves again (top toward the ground this time) lightly hammer in place and tighten the nut
18. Reinstall belt, tire, and wheel
19. Recheck everything to make sure it is tight, no grease on either sheave, belt, etc…
20. Take off and enjoy the ability to climb anything

Compliments of spriddle.

[BigDav]

Thanks for the help guys.
Spriddle,
I know I need to grease my primary clutch. Do I need to grease the secondary or would it have came with the correct amount of grease in it?
The front (primary) gets two pumps of grease and the rear (secondary) gets one pump of grease if it needs any? Correct? Or do I have that backwards?

I know I probably should have waited and got new ramp shoes but I decided to put it back with what I had. The service manual calls for replacement at 1mm. So I still have some life left in the ramp shoes.

Thanks again,
David

[spriddle]

Originally Posted by BigDav

Thanks for the help guys.
Spriddle,
I know I need to grease my primary clutch. Do I need to grease the secondary or would it have came with the correct amount of grease in it?
The front (primary) gets two pumps of grease and the rear (secondary) gets one pump of grease if it needs any? Correct? Or do I have that backwards?

I know I probably should have waited and got new ramp shoes but I decided to put it back with what I had. The service manual calls for replacement at 1mm. So I still have some life left in the ramp shoes.

Thanks again,
David

Yes you need to grease the secondary clutch. Not sure if it will come packed with grease or not so check the bushing to see. It want hurt to take your finger and run some grease around the inside on the bushing before installing even if it does come pre greased. Your ramp shoes are still in pretty good shape and should be fine for while. And your right: two pumps for front and one for back.

[BigDav]

I will grease them when I get started on it for the day. I have a trip to the parts store for a couple of fuel filters. Thanks for all the help.

David