12v Outlet Switched via ignition

[r15col]

I have a 2016 G29 Cart. I have fitted a 48v to 12v DC/DC Reducer to power a 12v outlet for charging phones etc. All works fine but want to it to be live only when I turn the ignition on. At the moment as it is wired direct to the batteries it is live all the time. Anyone with a little more electrical knowledge than myself have the best solution as to how to wire this up? Thanks.

[cgtech]

Does your DC converter have 3 input wires? Like red, black, yellow? If not, you should have bought a higher quality converter. If you did buy a cheapo that doesn't, we can still help you, but be ready for that cheapo converter to fail soon (it will). If you use the keyswitch to turn the cheapo "2 wire" one on & off Everytime, it will wear out your keyswitch sooner too. (Surge Everytime key is turned on). Let us know more about what you got.

[r15col]

Hi cgtech, Yes it is a cheap 2 wire input I bought. Limited supply as I am actually based in the Philippines. I can try and get one with 3 wire input via a friend. Planning to also hook up a light kit also and again this would be through the converter. Thanks

[cgtech]

Sorry, searching for wire diagram, phone forgot password to NAS where stored (I forgot too). This is harder when your diagram is absent, and can't remember in the middle of the night.

[cgtech]

K keyswitch swicthed hot wire is "red with white stripe". Any of those you find should be hot only when key is on. I couldn't remember, the other was red with yellow stripe (always on). Like I said, that cheapo reducer will likely fail soon, and will reduce the life of the key switch. The keyswitch circuit is protected by a small fuse, so don't be surprised if you make the cart inoperable by blowing the small fuse. "Alltrax controllers" replaces that fuse with a 10a fuse, so they say it's good for that much amps (bigger than the stock 3a fuse). Beyond this, all bets are off, and you are responsible for your own actions. If you go stick a 30a fuse, you will probably burn down your cart. Any respectable converter should be able to live within that "7 extra amps" window for powering a couple lights, but I'm not gonna call a cheapo converter "respectable", you never know what you get for $12 from China.

[Tha_B_Man]

An alternative to the key switch is a battery kill switch between your negative battery connection and your voltage reducer. There are various types of kill switches and you can mount them anywhere. I have been using one for over a year and have had no issues.


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[Dan33Klein]

You could also consider using a relay that is triggered by the 48v key switch to activate your reducer.

[TIKT B8]

I just installed scottyb's voltage reducer and it was a simple install and works just like I (you) want it to. It makes it amazingly easy to add 12v acc.
http://www.cartsunlimited.net/12v-reducers.html

[r15col]

Thanks for the replies, Been doing some more thinking and now plan to install a better quality reducer with a switching connection. I am also going to go away from switching with the ignition switch and will fit a panel with 3 rocker switches as well as USB and 12v Outlet. I will use 1 switch to turn on the reducer as I will not always need 12v. When I do, I just switch it on and then my lights will be on another toggle switch and a third as a spare for future use.