Steering rod vs. front springs.....

[Olman]

Originally Posted by pachanga90

It looks like the tie-rod is on top of the spindle.That will cause it to rub.The springs may be bent as well,which will bring them closer to the tie-rod.From the factory,the tie-rod is under the steering-arms if I remember correctly,but could be flipped to gain clearance,you can flip it under,that should gain the clearance you need.For the spring location,It depends on the year,Pre-88'? they were mounted on top,after the change they put them underneath the axle.Hope this helps.

Matt has a 95 medalist like mine only gas. His front end should be set up just like mine in the pic on my post. Springs mounted on the bottom of the axle. Tie rods on top of the steering arm.

[redcloud]

Ah yes I see. So probably is a stock axle but they did a spring lift by going above axle. Not knowing the real yr was my thought before but if that's what they did and the axle does look stock, then you would have to do some of your own modifications to the tie rod system or go with a proper lift axle for your yr.

[pachanga90]

OK,he didn't specify a year,so I threw out some general specs.If someone did the bracket-swap,then they will definitely interfere with the springs.

[Mattm]

It is a 1995 medalist, I did not do any of that. Yes the springs are mounted on top. The person who had it before me done stuff to it. It has a txt front plastic, along with the cheap lift. So where do I get the blocks so it can be done right. Also thanks guys for all your quick response.

[Olman]

Originally Posted by Mattm

It is a 1995 medalist, I did not do any of that. Yes the springs are mounted on top. The person who had it before me done stuff to it. It has a txt front plastic, along with the cheap lift. So where do I get the blocks so it can be done right. Also thanks guys for all your quick response.

I got blocks from SpeedyMetals.com. I got aluminum. If you look on their website, they call it "aluminum flat extruded". Get your measurements---they will cut to size.

[Mattm]

Do y'all think that the front axle could be newer, because on Olmans I notice that the place for the ball is still on the bottom. If I flip mine it would be on top. That would also explain the newer txt front cowl. I'd say it was probably wrecked pretty good.

Also if I use the blocks it should give me a little more lift and clearance for my steering, right? Makes since in my head.

[Olman]

Matt---a cheap block lift from one of the sponsors might be in order. If you have the funds, a good lift like a long travel will get rid of all that stuff for you.

[Mattm]

Wife and two kids, blocks sounds good to me! Lol

[Olman]

Originally Posted by Mattm

Do y'all think that the front axle could be newer, because on Olmans I notice that the place for the ball is still on the bottom. If I flip mine it would be on top. That would also explain the newer txt front cowl. I'd say it was probably wrecked pretty good.

Also if I use the blocks it should give me a little more lift and clearance for my steering, right? Makes since in my head.

Matt--you cannot flip the axle!! Your spindle mounts will be upside down and your camber will be way off. Besides the shock mounts will be on the bottom. To correct this you will need to reweld the spring mounting plates to the bottom of the axle. Maybe see if a cart shop or someone here has a medalist front axle.

[StoveBolt]

Depends on how much it's rubbing but some 1" blocks btwn the body and the rear of the front springs might give you the clearance.
I have used 1.5 x 1" square tubing with longer bolts and a hole to except the middle rear bolt, you have to pull up the floor-mat.

and re-adjust your toe-in