1988 Marathon - Runs on 1/2 Choke

[yler4cy]

I just picked up a 1988 EZGO Marathon that seems to only run when the choke is pulled half way out. I can get it warmed up by half choking it and then drive it around fine just a little bit with the choke back in before it will eventually die. Then I start the process all over again.

[cart around]

Fuel delivery problem. Dirty carb, filter, or pump. Maybe all three.

[yler4cy]

Ok sounds good. Thanks for the help!

[cart around]

Now that I'm on my home computer, here is your manual.

[yler4cy]

Originally Posted by cart around

Now that I'm on my home computer, here is your manual.

I picked up the cart cheap so plan to just replace the whole fuel system. Any recommendations on where to go for the carb and fuel pump? I can get a tune up kit for the filter and gas line locally.

[cart around]

The original carburetor is best. You really should just clean it. Pumps are cheap on all of the site sponsors, but also easy enough to clean and inspect the diaphragms. Look at the threads I have started. There is one on the 2 stroke pump. I'm on my phone, so no idea how to do links.

[yler4cy]

Ok I will look up. I am more interested in how to clean the carb.

[Familys88ezgo]

Not sure if you solved your issue or not. I just started an 88 rebuild too, and I had the same issue. Cart Around is right about the carb. He advised me to keep the OEM one because it's of better quality. I cleaned mine 3 times before I got it right. Also he advised me to check the fuel pump, so I did. It wasn't difficult to clean either (got that one on the first try). I had a few issues with the aftermarket parts I ordered. If you check out my post you can see the details. Good Luck!

[newtjl]

Remove the bowl. The bolt that holds it on is also the main jet. Remove it and the float and needle valve. If it has a mixture screw, remove that. Blow every orifice out with carb cleaner. Soak the whole thing in carb cleaner. The holes in that main jet are the biggie. If they are gummed up, it will have problems running optimally. Blow out all the holes with compressed air and reassemble. The OEM carb is the only way to go if you can get it clean. The aftermarket ones are poorly cast, poorly machined, are often defective out of the box, and almost always run too rich. A poorly seated needle valve on a chinese carb filled my crankcase up with oil and blew the crank seals. Needless to say, I wasnt happy and wound up spending more (if I count my labor) than I saved with the cheap carb.