Is Controller or OBC Bad

[usagcr]

Tahoe Thats great Thanks a million. You might just get a call one day. I hope you can understand a strong southern draw. I went snapper fishing and dad found a controller from CTS website for 325.00 looks like re manufactured. I will be ordering that tonight. Thanks and I will let you know when it comes in.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by usagcr

Tahoe Thats great Thanks a million. You might just get a call one day. I hope you can understand a strong southern draw.

I'm from Georgia my friend, I think I'll be fine.

[usagcr]

OK The new controller is in. we have connected it. I still have questions of why was his OBC was plugged in as designed when we picked the cart up. The ground from the charger receptacle is going to the Controller and then through the OBC right to B-. That means THE OBC should have been by-passed CORRECT ? But now we are having to jumper the white and blue to get power to the controller ????? so I have to assume his OBC was bypassed for charging but it was still making the jumper on the blue and white. So the OBC is bad also and that is why we are now having to jump the white and blue ? anyway. now when we jumper the blue and white from OBC harness side we get a reverse buzzer and both solenoids actuate. But the fun never ends because now we have no voltage from the controller to the field side of motor ?? No voltage from the orange and blue from controller to the F1 and F2 ? doesn't this mean we just received a bad controller
?

[usagcr]

ok second controller is here. we are about to see what happens. stay tuned.

[usagcr]

well we get the same thing, no power out of controller on orange and white going to the field side of motor ???????????????????????? ***** what are we missing. getting frustrated, this is not a good first cart to work on. Please help

[jjance]

That should be orange and blue wires going to the field windings.

Does the reverse buzzer sound with the sw in reverse whether the key is on or not.

[usagcr]

yes our diagram says it is a orange and blue also, but we have a white and orange, yes we get a reverse buzzer and the key can be on or off we still get buzzer when put in reverse. we also found the red/green wire on the speed sensor to motor pulled out of plug so we re-connected that. but nothing changes.

[usagcr]

since we have reconnected the red/green wire at the bottom of the motor (the one that is supposed to feed 5vdc to the speed sensor), we are getting some kind of reading off the f2 it reads around 3.5vdc then jumps to maybe 7.?vdc then to 40vdc when the accelerator is depressed all the way. and with pedal depressed it keeps repeating those readings. and by the way that same red/green wire coming from pin 15 that we reconnected to the speed sensor that is supposed to supply a constant 5vdc is supplying 12vdc ?????? and still less than a volt on f1 no matter if pedal is depressed or up.

[jjance]

Look on the controller and see what colors the F1 and F1 wires are. Then look on the motor and see what colors the F1 & F2 wires are. They should match. I also think you are chasing your tail looking for a voltage on f1 and f2. There shouldn't be anything there until the thyristors or SCR's or whatever is inside the controller fires. BTW is your controller stock or an upgrade?

No voltage from the orange and blue from controller to the F1 and F2 ? doesn't this mean we just received a bad controller

The above is from one of your other posts.

[usagcr]

JJANCE, thanks for looking and offering advice by the way, I do appreciate any and all help. Yes in a previous post I might have said orange and blue, but that is because that is what the diagram shows, however our wires coming from F1 and F2 are indeed WHITE and ORANGE. Each wire is only about 24 or 30 inches and they go directly from the controller to the F1 and F2 on the motor.

We have checked every wire going to the controller (16 wires) and everything checks good going into the controller, so if a resistor or SCR? or whatever is supposed to be MAKING inside the controller to provide voltage out of the controller going to F1 and F2 is not being made, doesn't that say the controller is bad ? If so this is our second bad controller from CTS. I hope this helps someone, help us.