05-15-2017, 07:58 AM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 32
|
No lights
Hello again,
First let me re-thanks those who helped me in previous posts. This weekend I removed the 6V batteries that were mistakenly put in to my 48V cart and put in new 8s. The difference was amazing and I'm now psyched to rehab this old beater. Color scheme is currently being debated among the rest of the family but until then, I'm going to keep working on the innards. Which brings me to m next question. None of the lights work. This weekend I was able to test the switch and the 12v junction. The bulbs don't look burnt but I didn't have my test meter to see if the receptacle was getting power. I'll be checking that next weekend. But my question is this... there is a little black 4 pin 12v relay under the seat in the battery compartment which has 2 wires connected to 2 of the batteries and the other 2 wires going to the front of the cart. The "hot" wire coming off the batters has a fuse inline (also good). I think this relay works because it makes a "click" when I flip the toggle switch on and off. The lights never worked, even when I had the 6v batteries in, so there's some problem to deal with, but am I creating an additional problem now with the 8v batteries? Meaning, I now have 16 volts wired into a little black box that's labeled "12v". Is that thing going to burn up when I figure out the initial problem? Thanks! |
Today | |
Sponsored Links
__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum |
|
05-15-2017, 08:22 AM | #2 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 32
|
Re: No lights
I think I've already figured out the answer. Since the PO was running 36v, they had a typical 12V light kit installed and it worked fine. Now that I'm running it with 48V I need to add a voltage reducer.
Am I right? |
05-15-2017, 08:59 AM | #3 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 354
|
Re: No lights
It could be the reducer is not the right size or maybe when you change the batteries some of the wires were over looked and forgot to hook them up?
|
05-15-2017, 01:05 PM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 32
|
Re: No lights
Thanks NSane,
I think I was too verbose. The headlights don't work but they didn't work when the cart had 6 volt batteries either... that's not really my question though as I still haven't troubleshot it fully. My real question is... now that I have 8v batteries in the cart, do I need a voltage reducer or can I run the 12V lighting system off of 16v? |
05-15-2017, 11:52 PM | #5 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 1,165
|
Re: No lights
I think the preferred solution is to add a 48V - 12V reducer is the preferred solution.
Then you are not pulling an extra load on a part of the battery back. You can also add a fuse box, and run all of your accessories from it. Aflyer |
05-16-2017, 12:41 AM | #6 |
Gone Insane
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 14,215
|
Re: No lights
Without seeing what you are working with, the short answer is you are better off with a 48-12 volt reducer. Under any circumstances the best answer is you need a 48-12 volt reducer.
|
05-16-2017, 08:03 AM | #7 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Central FL
Posts: 1,195
|
No lights
Quote:
You have several options. If your on a low budget and needing lights for you and others to see you at night then here you go. Otherwise if you have the money just do it the right way. PS - I have personally ran lights in all the methods below. While some of them are unconventional they will work. Right way #1) Get a 48v to 12Volt reducer. This is obviously the best (and most expensive route). This is what I worked up to and currently run in order to power other 12Volt items. Pros: Lots of benefits including being able to add other 12V items such as a phone charger, radio, lighted switches, etc. Cons: Price, Mounting location, Drains your pack while in use - Not much of an issue though as the drain is small. Right way #2) Get a small 12Volt sealed motorcycle battery. This is usually very inexpensive. This is what my dad settled on and is currently running. I would also go this route next time. Pros: Completely isolated from your battery pack. Meaning you will not reduce run time or ever risk draining your main pack below a safe level. Cons: Mounting location, Must have a separate 12V charger to occasionally charge the battery independent of your main pack - Most people already have a 12Volt charger though, so this is usually not even an issue. Right way #3) Buy a set of 48v LED headlights. Pros: Runs off your main 48v pack and has very little draw. Cons: Unless you buy high dollar LEDs your light beam will become very unfocused and your sight-distance will be reduced. #4) You can run your existing halogen lights off of 16v - my dad did it for a year. The amount of heat generated in the headlight housing was a concern though. He then switched to LED headlight bulbs. LEDs have a very wide voltage operating range and you would be perfectly fine in this range. Also the current draw on the batteries is almost negligible. Checking each batteries voltage should already be in your routine maintenance so you would easily be able to keep a eye on any variance and change which batteries you use to keep the pack from becoming too unbalanced. #5) Hook up existing halogen headlights in series and run them off three of your 8v to equal 24v. Pros: You'll get normal operating temps. Normal light output and your spreading your load to three batteries instead of two thus reducing the impact on pack-unbalance a little. Cons: I've been told there is a spike in current as it goes first through the bulbs and will eventually blow them. I think that's more in theory as I've ran this way and never had a bulb blow. Make sure you are wiring them in series! This is your cheapest option. I've ran all the above at one point or another and can verify they will work. Obviously some of them aren't conventional and I'll prob get blasted for sharing some of them but they've all worked for me so take that for what it's worth. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
|
05-16-2017, 08:15 AM | #8 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Queensland Australia
Posts: 1,332
|
Re: No lights
Good post UncleJerm76
|
05-16-2017, 01:35 PM | #9 |
......................
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: FT Lauderdale FL.
Posts: 16,416
|
Re: No lights
If your not drawing the needed voltage from the whole pack, a reducer or a 12 volt battery to run you accessories. You will have an unbalance pack, Not good for battery life span
|
05-16-2017, 03:40 PM | #10 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Winston-Salem,NC
Posts: 143
|
Re: No lights
I know this option is highly frowned upon and I'll probably get some kick back on this.....but I have my 12 volt head and tail lights on my 06 Precedent hooked up to one battery. They are 08 Trojans and I will be changing them out this month. I use my lights one or two nights for 10-15 minutes every 2nd or 3rd weekend. I am very anal about battery upkeep with distilled water at the proper level and always charge them properly. Never have switched the batteries around because there is no noticeable difference in the state of charge (check monthly.) Believe me, had there been any noticeable difference, I would have rotated the batteries. Have I been lucky or an exception to the rule?
|
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Front Lights, Directional, Brake Lights not working | Electric Club Car | |||
Installing Blinkers/Brake Lights on Existing LED lights | Electric EZGO | |||
Break lights and orange front lights work but headlights don't! | Electric EZGO | |||
Wiring for Head ligths, Tail Lights, Brake Lights and Turn Signals | Gas EZGO | |||
Blew all lights, new tail lights wont get brighter on brake press. | Electric Club Car |