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Old 11-10-2018, 11:08 AM   #21
Fairtax4me
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Default Re: Drive clutch bolt

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Originally Posted by Mooncarter View Post
Fairtax, shouldn't the bolt part that came off be a good clue as to how much is in there? I know he won't know for sure until the clutch comes off.
It can be if he has a new clutch bolt to compare with. Most of the time it seems like bolts break at the head or at the threads.
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Old 11-11-2018, 10:13 AM   #22
johnlem1
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Default Re: Drive clutch bolt

Your replies are appreciated. I figured when I get the new bolt I would cut the old bolt off to use as part of the puller. I will measure the new bolt and the puller rod to determine what length to cut the old bolt to for use as a push (puller) rod.
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Old 11-16-2018, 08:09 PM   #23
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Default Re: Drive clutch bolt

Once again thank you everyone for the help. In case someone else has the misfortune to not follow directions like me and break the left hand thread bolt in the drive clutch, here is what I experienced. I used the broken bolt and cut it to the size I thought i should be to jack the clutch off. I had a puller (jack) kit I bought but it was made for a situation where the bolt was removed properly and mine had approximately 1/2" of the old bolt left inside. After easily removing the clutch using the cut old bolt and the jacking bolt (that came with kit) I had about 1/4" of stub sticking out. I immediately thought I'm in luck I can use a pair of vice grips to grab on to it and turn it out but it was even easier than that. It came out by hand. Hurray, this is my lucky day. Unfortunately the new bolt I ordered from "Vintage Golf Cart Parts" was right hand thread. That made a good thing turn to crap in a hurry. A call to "Caddy Carts" a club car dealer nearby got me the correct part for $3. I paid $10 for the wrong one; I had mixed feelings, on one hand mad about the wrong bolt but on the other happy about the results. Here is a photo of the bolt stub before touching it and another of the engine compartment with the new clutches, new muffler, fuel pump, filters, igniter, rebuilt transaxle, muffler, fuel sending unit and rebuilt starter. I never worked on a gas cart before and now have at least 30 hours of homeschooling and wasted $ on stuff I didn't need in the first place. I'm stubborn and think I can do it better and cheaper, but this time I think it would have been better to enlist an expert. But overall I like to learn and even though I paid for this class I think it was worth it. I have a 2000 carryall that has a lot of new parts on it and should serve me for a while. Anyone need good used parts?
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Old 11-16-2018, 08:11 PM   #24
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Default Re: Drive clutch bolt

Sorry, I cant' figure out how to post photos. If someone tells me how I will. Otherwise thank you all, last post for now.
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Old 11-16-2018, 10:34 PM   #25
Mooncarter
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Default Re: Drive clutch bolt

Man you are LUCKY. I had a week long nightmare with a John Deere garden tractor with a Kawasaki engine.. Clutch bolt broke off at an angle inside crankshaft. Finally got an ez-out in it off center. Broke the ez-out. Never did get the bolt out. Got so frustrated ended up selling it cheap. This was not a cheap John Deere like you buy at Home Depot, it was the real thing.

If that $10 is all you have to worry about consider yourself LUCKY.
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Old 11-17-2018, 03:20 PM   #26
Fairtax4me
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Default Re: Drive clutch bolt

Keep the incorrect bolt for a future project, or put it up for sale in the classifieds here. If you really wanted t you could raise some stink with the seller and probably get a full refund, but that seems like wasted effort for $10 if you ask me.

Glad you got it together and running! The problem with these carts often is that trying to do things “cheaper” comes back to bite you later. Certain parts are fine, but electrical parts pretty much need to be OEM or you end up replacing them again.
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Old 11-17-2018, 07:23 PM   #27
Mooncarter
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Default Re: Drive clutch bolt

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Originally Posted by Fairtax4me View Post
Keep the incorrect bolt for a future project, or put it up for sale in the classifieds here. If you really wanted t you could raise some stink with the seller and probably get a full refund, but that seems like wasted effort for $10 if you ask me.

Glad you got it together and running! The problem with these carts often is that trying to do things “cheaper” comes back to bite you later. Certain parts are fine, but electrical parts pretty much need to be OEM or you end up replacing them again.
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Old 11-18-2018, 07:24 PM   #28
johnlem1
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Default Re: Drive clutch bolt

Fairtax4me I have been working on this for four weeks and every part I ordered was supposed to be OEM. If I take it apart it will get new OEM replacement parts and for the most part they were but occasionally there are advertized OEM parts that turn out not to be OEM. It wasn't so much the $10 it was the fact that I was stuck when I thought I pre-planed. In any event I am pleased with the outcome.
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