Smoke coming from 36v Motor on 48v

[rgecy]

Ok, I recently converted my 36v resistor cart to 48v about a month or so ago and everything seemed to be going fine. The cart has been running great. However, this weekend while hunting, I smelled something burning and got up under the cart. The motor was warm, but not what I would call HOT. Then I noticed one of the terminals on the motor looked a little black. Of course I tapped it with a finger and it was extremely hot! Burned the He!! out of me.

We had been running thru some soft dirt at slow speed. I assume this may be the culprit, but wanted to hear you guys thoughts.

The cart seems to be running fine, but have I damaged the motor?

What are my options? Could it be fixed or sent to PQ or something?

By the way, my setup is AXE4855, PB6, HD Solenoid, 48v, with stock 36v motor, 6" Lift, 22" Sahara AT Tires.


Thanks,

Robert

[scottyb]

Now that it has cooled off can you check to see if the connection is loose?
Note: Use two wrenches to prevent spinning the stud and doing internal damage.

[rgecy]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Now that it has cooled off can you check to see if the connection is loose?
Note: Use two wrenches to prevent spinning the stud and doing internal damage.

I was wondering about that. It did spin just a little when I first installed the cables.

I will check it in a few and let you know.

Thanks Scotty!

[rgecy]

Scotty,

It was snug, but I would not say completely tight. I got another quarter turn or so out of it. I also checked some of the others and they were about the same.

So, is this normal with these converted motors?

I spoke to one of the guys at Plum Quick and of course can get the Bandit for $225. I think I am going to go ahead ond go this route before it gets any worse.

Robert

[scottyb]

A motor is a good idea, no, not normal. So maybe your motor is shot?

[essness]

Originally Posted by rgecy

Save your money. A pair of pliers and a hammer or mallet works great. Just squeeze the connector on tight by hand, then use hammer to hit jaws of pliers once or twice to crimp. Works like a charm!

I just made all new cables for my 92 DS this way. By the way, it took right at 25' of cable to do all the batteries and wires from F&R and controller to motor.

Good Luck,

RGecy

You also may want to get your cable ends crimpped properly. Loose connections cause heat.

[scottyb]

Crimping with a pliers and hammer is laughable

IMHO

[BRS]

I too had this same problem. I swapped out a stock ge 3.75hp for a d-380 and, of course over tightened one of the studs and it turned about a quarter turn too far. 2 years later, burnt batt. studs and a black motor stud. PQ has since repaired and put a little purple dust on it for me. In fact I'm waiting on it now. So, yes opposing wrenches very important, I think I'll use a lock washer on the second nut as to not overtighten but maintain a secure connection. Send it to PQ and have'em fix it up for ya.

PS
The 36 volvt motors are good to hold on to.

[rgecy]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Crimping with a pliers and hammer is laughable

IMHO

Thanks! Yeah! But it works just as good if you do it right! I have had "professional" crimps come loose too! Each one checked and probably more snug than the set I bought!

You are right though, better to do it with professional devices, than homemade. More room for error! I thought it was ingenious though on a budget! I know I am not the only one to try this!