gas dripping from motor

[LidyGraphics]

Took the cart out yesterday and it ran fine. Probably put around 15 miles on it. Went in the garage this morning before leaving for work and fuel is dripping from the engine. Pulled the spark plug and it poured out. Apparently it was totally flooded with fuel. I took the fuel line off the tank to get it to stop siphoning for now. Where do i start when I get home tonight. Float stuck? Fuel Pump? any other ideas.

[LidyGraphics]

btw its an 88 ezgo 2 stroke

[DOOmsman]

It sounds as if you have a stuck, bad, float
or something caught in th the inlet needle.
Take the carb off and clean and check it.
Also check the pulse line between the fuel pump
and engine for excessive fuel in case the pump
has a ruptured diaphragm.

[racin161]

I'd take the float bowl off and check for a small piece of debris under the needle and seat. Take the pin out remove the float to access the needle clean it and blow out the seat with air and carb cleaner.Place the carb upside down after the float has been replaced before installing the bowl and attempt to blow by mouth in fuel line connection. NO AIR you've fixed the problem. AIR replace the needle and seat.Be sure to replace the fuel filter. Hope this gets it done

[Dave Box]

It depends where the leak is coming from. If it from the top of the carburetor, out of the breather tube then it is likely to be a malfunctioning float chamber. If it is leaking from the exhaust pipe then I suggest that your fuel pump has a ruptured diaphragm.

Dave

[Dave Box]

BTW I forgot to mention, don't try to start your engine. If the crankcase is full of liquid the chances are that you will blow the crankshaft seals and that will make you cry tears of bitter rage.
I am 99% sure that it is not the carburetor so I suggest that your first move should be to remove and check the fuel pump. Whilst the pump is off and with the spark plug removed, rotate the engine by hand. This will purge the crankcase of liquid. You may or may not see a crack in the fuel pump diaphragm but you may be able to feel it with your finger. Generally they crack right on the edge of the casing. The repair kit is about the same price as a new one so you may consider $33 for a new one to be a good spend.

Dave

[LidyGraphics]

I am going to tear into it after bit. Wish me luck.

[LidyGraphics]

Update. I got it apart and really didnt find anything wrong. Diaphrams looked good in the fuel pump until i gave it a shot of compressed air and busted it. Also found the fuel was coming from the crank seal on the flywheel side. So it looks like i will be changing a crank seal and fuel pump. Can the seal be changed without pulling the motor.

[Dave Box]

It would be a bad investment in your time not to change both seals. In fact it is usual for the one at the other side to go first as the clutch end has more strain. In theory you could change them with the engine in but removing the engine will add little overhead to the job and makes the replace much easier.
You will need to make or buy a clutch puller to remove the clutch and you will need a steering wheel puller to get the flywheel off. Both tasks are a royal P.I.T.A. both you can take consolation in the fact that many, many guys have done it and soon you too will be able to look your fellow man in the eye and say with a steely resolve " Yeah I was there"
Good luck
Dave.

[LidyGraphics]

I actually changed both seals about a year ago when i rebuilt the engine. I have a backfire issue that is getting blamed for the blown crank seal. I really dont want to pull the motor out. Just dont have time right now.