st480 16hp to 18hp conversion, generator to altenator..

[dmoss69]

Ok fells, here we go.....

First off, my 16hp vanguard is history.

We purchased a new 18hp vanguard, tapered shaft engine.
This engine came with Starter and Altenator arangement.

The old engine had no internal altenator stator/magnet arangement, only a starter generator.....

I've been reading, studying on these engines, and from what I understand is this.....

Either I have to use the old generator/stator setup, or convert over to the new alt/starter set-up......

PROBLEMS, OPTIONS.....

1. Using the old gen/starter set-up......

If I use the old gen/starter set-up, then I have to take off the new starter and voltge regulator for the starter to fit......

If I don't pull off the fan balancer to take off the altenator magnents/stator, then I'm going to have resistance on the engine as it's running....I was wondering if this is spinning and creating AC voltge, how much horsepower is it going to loose while the engine is running......

2. Using the NEW Alt and Starter......

IF I use the new stuff, from what I have read, I need to install a new key switch to energize the solenoid for the starter instead of using the foot microswitch.....

And the keyswitch to ground the ignition coils when I turn it off.....

QUESTION......

If I use the new set-up, it has the 20amp rectifier/regulator, do I hook up
the output wire straight to a battery or do I have to run an ampmeter....



And if I have to install the new 6 pin switch, I see that I need to supply the headlights from an external switch relay setup.....

If yall see any info or this type of conversion or a link, please let me know....I've been searching and reading the ST-480 owners manual/parts manuals, and the new engines manuals, and this is what I'm comming up with on my own.

And I have searched, got SOME good info, I'm still looking. As I do this, I'll post up progress. Hell, I've already installed the engine on Friday, and this is when I noticed all these differences...I was told, yeah, it'll drop right in there and you should be up and running in no time......

D Moss
(803)682-5099

[dmoss69]

02 or an 03 EZ-GO ST-480 Workhorse

Old motor: 303440

New Motor: 350447

[Flintrock]

I would certainly use the new set up, and Yes you can take the output from the regulator straight to the battery or T in a ammeter if you desire. The amount of HP you would lose hooking up the old alternator far outweighs the magnet/ stator and 20 amps should be plenty of juice... In general since I'm not familiar with the old setup, I would sure use a new key switch rather than a foot pedal start, and don't forget the anti-fire solenoid that probably came with new motor (under the carb). Use the "Ground" connection externally if your body mount is plastic. and the relay for the lights is a necessity if you don't already have one. Sounds like you have a good handle on all this, what are you using for a drive clutch with the tapered shaft motor?

[dmoss69]

[QUOTE=Flintrock;778417]I would certainly use the new set up, and Yes you can take the output from the regulator straight to the battery or T in a ammeter if you desire.

If I don't need the ammeter, then I def won't use it....Every diagram that I see says I need to run the output from the regulator to the switch, and not straight to the battery. I'd much rather run it straight to the battery if this is an option!

I would sure use a new key switch rather than a foot pedal start,

Me too, and this is the plan. I purchased a key switch from NAPA, part number 7-01850

It's a 5 pin switch, not the 6 pin in all of the vanguard diagrams, but I'm going to check it out and see if it will work. If I can run the regulator wire straight to the battery and bypass the ammeter and switch, then I don't see why I cannot make it work.


and don't forget the anti-fire solenoid that probably came with new motor (under the carb).

Thanks for the reminder, I havn't made it that far, but I will indeed remember to wire this up!

Use the "Ground" connection externally if your body mount is plastic. and the relay for the lights is a necessity if you don't already have one. Sounds like you have a good handle on all this, what are you using for a drive clutch with the tapered shaft motor?[/QUOTE]

I have to see about the mount, I'm pretty sure it's plastic, so I will use the "ground" tab on the switch if it is there!

And the tapered shaft clutch, the original shaft was tapered, so I will use the stock clutch drive, it mounted right up!

Yall keep the info flowing!

And thanks....

D Moss

[Flintrock]

There are a number of 5 pole switch diagrams in the front of the BB section (stickies) like

here: http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...s-20wiring.pdf

As long as the switch you have matches the functionality (off, on start) and you know which pole is which you should have no problems. I cheated and bought the Briggs switch...still wasn't a lot of fun.

[dmoss69]

Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the ignition wiring onvthe switch?

I have..
BLACK
WHITE
BLUE
GREEN
YELLOW
Dark blue with light blue stripe.

I have found NO diagram on which wire goes where......

[dmoss69]

Im also not so sure about the small square external ignition module off of the 16hp engine, should it go onto the new 18hp engine. I see no info in my books or paperwork.

It has a small white wire on it that i thought bolted to the small stud sticking out of the tin that the ground wire goes, the "kill switch" wire.....

[Flintrock]

The back of your new ignition switch should be marked as follows:

B= Battery terminal on solenoid
M= Kill terminal on engine shroud
G=Ground
L= Anti fire solenoid tab
S=Starter solenoid tab

and I'm not sure a 5 pole will work on your motor, you're missing a tab for the regulator.

If it's not marked, I think your screwed. Return it and go get a 6 pole Briggs switch.........

[dmoss69]

IT RUNS!!!! (3:30 AM!)

I got it to start using the stock ignition and microswitch on the pedal. The stock throttle cable is frayed, so it's not hooked up, so firing the starter is all the pedal is good for right now, gotta order cable.


I went to NAPA and picked up a push button switch that I am going to use to in place of the microswitch on the pedal, so that will take care of the silenoid problem.

What I was looking for was the wires that are attached to the stock switch, where does each one of them go?

BLACK............GROUND (continuity with white when key is in OFF position)

WHITE............wire that runs to "kill switch" on tin work of engine. (found continuity with ohm meter)

BLUE..............

GREEN............

YELLOW..........

DARK BLUE WITH LIGHT BLUE STRIPE..........

As of now, the motor will start, run fine, and when I want to turn it off, I just switch the key to the off position and it dies.

I'm almost to the point of keeping the stock key with push button for start function, then trouble shoot some of these wiring issues.

I do know with the voltage wire directly hooked up to the battery, I was getting 14.5V which is great! I unhooked all wires when I left, I didn't want it to hold power on voltage regulator and burn it up till I find out if I need to run it to the ignition switch or a relay that is switched "on" with the engine is running. Or is it ok to leave 12V+ on this wire regardless if it is running or not.

Another thing is the silver square ignition module off of the 16hp engine....I can't remember if I had it hooked up last night or not, it was 3:30am when it fired up! I did not have this hooked up......I have discovered that is is called an ignition shutoff module, and it operates when you let off the foot pedal, it grounds the wire to kill the engine, so if I want to stop it from running while I decelerate, then hook this wire up to the "kill terminal" on the tin work....if I don't want this option, then just leave it unhooked and the engine will continue to run with my foot off of the accelerator.

If anyone has any ideas of the stock ignition wire routing, I'm all ears!

Thanks

[Flintrock]

You realize that the correct 6 pole Briggs starter switch is $20 bucks......


With that you would need to extend the existing wiring harness. 'Twer me, I would call CPP (site sponsor) and see if they would sell you the switch and harness separately. They may not, but it wouldn't hurt to ask......