what to check

[JohnnieB]

Carts need to be exercised often and exorcized occasionally.
Mine has a poltergeist living somewhere between the rear tires that makes noises when the motor is spinning slowly.

The voltage readings are a bit strange. Try measuring between the Main positive terminal on the battery pack and the B+ terminal on the controller.
If you have the pre-charge resistor installed, you should get about 3-5V before the solenoid clicks. If no resistor is installed on the solenoid's large terminal. it will be full pack voltage.

After the solenoid clicks, you should not read any voltage.
If you do, something is wrong with the solenoid contacts, or the two cables between the battery pack and the B+ terminal on the controller.


You may have more than one problem.
Typically, if the solenoid clicks in both F and R, the going forward but not reverse problem is limited to the F/R switch.

[sonnysmith]

JohnnieB
I have just about drove alltrax service tech. nuts.
I have changed wires and Its, checked all voltage and still no reason for what it's doing.
The 1/2 speed wire and we don't know why, when it's plugged in to the controller the cart will not run in reverse. Remove the wire and it runs normal.
It will run in both forward and reverse if you remove the orange wire 1/2 speed. Can't remember all the voltages but they are close to being right As Will at alltrax said it should not be doing this.
We are now trying to find out, if something inside the controller could cause this kind of problem.

I will report back as soon as we know anything.

[JohnnieB]

I don't have a schematic for the controller, but working normally when the 1/2 speed reverse wire is disconnected and not working right when it is, narrows the problem down to the controller.

It will be interesting to hear how they handle it.

[sonnysmith]

I'll yet you know as soon as I hear from alltrax.

[sonnysmith]

Johnnie

well I'm back without any thing new to tell.
Alltrax sent me a new controller and I installed it.
I still have the same problem. It will not run in reverse when the orange wire is plug into the 1/2 speed or the fourth spade on the controller. If you remove the orange wire it will run in reverse. The cart runs in forward with orange wire hooked up or not. Still seems slow in forward, just by looking at it.
This is what has been tried.
1, Difference controller
2. Difference f and r switch
3. Difference ITS
4. Difference Motor
5. Difference solenoid
6. new wiring harness to the controller
7 new 4ga. wires (batteries and Motor)
8. New micro switch.

I have tried a new crimping tool on this cart. Don't see how that would make a difference..
So at this point, I don't know what to check. Johnnie Do you ever talk someone through a test on the phone????
Just so everyone knows It's a 2003 ez go series cart txt with 6 new - 8 volt US Batteries. Using a new DPI charger, and the cart has never been set down on the tires.

Thanks
Sonny
PS could you give me a list of thing to check.

[JohnnieB]

The pin numbers of the control wires are entirely different on an AXE controller than they are on a stock series controller. I don't think it would run in either direction if the control wires were on the wrong pins, but just to verify.
On the AXE:
Pin-1 is Red wire from pedal switch.
Pins 2 & 3 are Blk and Wht wire from ITS sensor (doesn't matter which order they are installed)
Pin-4 is Org wire from MS-4 on F/R switch assembly (1/2 speed reverse)

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Also, just to be sure we are on same page. When the Org wire is connected and the cart will not run in reverse, does the solenoid click when the pedal is pushed?

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Strip the electrical system down to the bare essentials. Remove the resistor and diode from the solenoid, disconnect the reverse beeper and disconnect and accessories.

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Does the AXE controller have an A2 terminal?

[sonnysmith]

JohnnieB


When the orange wire from the ms4 switch is hooked up the cart will not run in reverse. The solenoid does click and wheels make a small movement trying to run.

I will take everything off and try that.

No there is not A2 on the controller.

Thanks for the help.
Sonny

[sonnysmith]

JohnnieB

There is no change with out the diode or resistor.
I have found out, If I apply power to the 1/2 speed terminal on the alltrax controller it will keep the cart from running. That power can come straight from the battery packs pos. The controller has never showed that it's reaching full output by changing to orange on the controller when I'm running it with the pedal pushed all the way.
I also changed the motor out for another one with the same results.
Tech guys at alltrax are getting their heads together and then they will call me.
I have no clue. Can you think of anything????? I've missed.

Thanks
sonny

[JohnnieB]

I'm more or less in the same boat as the guys at Alltrax. Granted, they are privy to the actual circuitry inside the AXE controller and I'm not, but putting B+ on Pin-4 is something that is routinely done during normal operation and shouldn't be causing two different controllers to malfunction.

When you apply B+ to Pin-4, the Green LED doesn't go out, blink or turn Red, does it?

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From what I can tell, you've replaced everything in the drive system except the cart itself. Have you tried isolating the controller from the heatsink?

In a recent thread, sportcoupe (IIRC) said he had an issue with an Alltrax controller thinking it was too cold to operate because of a ghost voltage on the cart's frame.

That is grasping at straws, but at at least it is a possibility that can be eliminated.

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This is probably a separate issue, but you've mention that when the motor does run, it does seem to be running as fast as it should.

There are a couple ways of check if the controller is opening up all the way and allowing the motor all the amps it can draw.

The one I like best is measuring between the B- and M- terminals on the controller. (Only the MOSFETs are between those two terminals, so you only looking at the controller's output)
When the pedal is pushed just far enough to get the solenoid to click, you should read FULL pack voltage.
If you don't get FULL pack voltage, there is an issue in the high current circuit outside the controller.
If you do get FULL pack voltage, pres the pedal to the floor and the voltage should drop nearly to zero. (It depends on the ampacity of the controller, but the MOSFETs drop about 0.05V to about 0.10V per 100 amps of current flow through them)

The other way is to measure from the B+ terminal to the M- terminal.
The voltage starts at zero when the solenoid clicks and as the pedal is pushed to the floor, it climbs to FULL pack voltage, less the small voltage drop across the MOSFETs per 100A of current flow through them.

[sonnysmith]

JohnnieB

I'm not even in the same ballpark as you guys. So I'm totally lost. I have tried almost everything I know to do. You asked about the speed, well running the motor with the ITS it never got up to full output per the color on the led.
Will at alltrax ask me to change over to 0-5 K and see what would happen.
That being said, with the change, I got full output from the controller. Motor ran much faster but still would not run with power on terminal 4.
I will check output tomorrow on B+ and M - and let you know. I'm going back through the F and R and see if I missed something in there. Just looking for that straw to grab.

My plan right now is to redo larger cable one at a time and see if that helps.
I will let you know.
Thanks for all the help.
Sonny