1991 ezgo 2 stroke fuel problems

[Seanmharr]

Hello I just got a 1991 ezgo with a 2 stroke self injected engine. She's been sitting for a few years and got her running. Cleaned the carb and air filter and put in a new battery.

I can get the cart to stay running by messing with the choke but won't stay consistent she will die out if I let the choke off. Anyways I suspect something to do with the oil/fuel mixture since she smells of fuel and is blowing quit a bit of smoke, was wondering if there's a way to adjust the amount of oil being supplied somehow?

Also is there a way to adjust the carb because the person who cleaned it might of tampered with the screws on it; how do I reset the carb back to factory if I can

Thank you

[sccowboy]

You may have leaking crank seals. If they leak it cannot develop enough back pressure to effectively drive the fuel pump or draw the fuel/air mixture into the carb and crankcase.

[raydhd]

Is the exhaust system blocked?

[Seanmharr]

Hello again and thanks for the replies,

How do I know if my crank seals are bad? I can tell you that I took the fuel line off the carb and cranked the engine over and seems to be pumping a healthy amount of fuel. (Maybe not enough? Idk)

As for the exhaust being blocked I doubt it because air is coming out and I can drive the cart up and down the street if I'm continuously adjusting the choke but if I let off the choke she will stop running.

I've since adjusted the carb back to its original specs and still is having problems; I have adjusted the rods on the throttle cable so that the oil pump butterfly (I guess you call it) is sitting all the way against the stopper when the throttle is closed; is it supposed to be that way ?

If it's not the crank seal, can I adjust the amount of oil being supplied somehow?

[93yellowclubcar]

The best way to adjust the amount of oil is to ditch everything to do with the oil injection system, plug the injection hole in the intake, and also drain the gas tank. Then, using good gas (ethanol free if you can find it) and some good quality two stroke oil premix your fuel at 128:1. That's 1 oz. of oil per gallon of fuel. Oil injection systems have a high failure rate, especially as they age, and have been responsible for many a trashed engine.

[BrewCityMusic]

define "cleaned the carb" ... These 2-stroke carbs are VERY finicky if there are any obstructions, to actually make headway cleaning them they HAVE to be completely disassembled and all the jets, needle seat, etc thoroughly cleaned (generally with a set of torch-cleaning tips and carb cleaner) ... As a rule, if the choke needs to be on to keep it running, 9X out of ten it's a plugged jet somewhere.

Other than that, DEFINITELY pull the oil injector as posted above. Make *sure* to plug the hole on the intake elbow using a metric bolt and some gasket-seal, the littlest leak will cause more running issues.

The pump should be pulsing fuel at a healthy rate - generally it will squirt out of the hose 2-3" or more.

[BrewCityMusic]

Here's a diagram of your carb with the most important parts circled, compressed carb cleaner and like I mentioned, a torch-tip cleaner or very careful use of a fine wire will help.

[Dave Box]

You could do a lot worse than to invest $20 in a compression tester.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Automotive-C..._Tools&vxp=mtr

The little Robin engine will run but quite badly at low compression but no amount of cleaning or adjusting will make it better. Personally I don't think that you can make a diagnosis without knowing how tired the engine is. In addition compression is much more important on a 2 stroke than a 4 stroke as blow by will have a great effect on the pressure oscillations in the crankcase which as essential for good running

If you decide to go down this route then;

140 - 125 psi and you're looking good
100 - 124 somewhat worn
75 - 99 cause for concern
below 75 it really is time to break out the wrenches.

Good luck

Dave

[TheGDFP]

I'm curious as to what part of the injection system is failing? These appear to have the same Mikuni pumps as millions of sleds/bikes/PWC/ATV. Mine had stopped because the blower housing bolts had fallen out and disengaged the drive, but the PO had done a lousy job on a rebuild.

[OlrustysGhost]

I had a similar problem. Mine would run if I would fiddle with the choke at low rpm. I cleaned the carb drained the tank and then new fuel and mix. It didn't help. When I checked the crank seals they were worn out because the crank bearing were worn out. If you wiggle the crankshaft by grabbing the clutch housing. I would check that. I'm still in the process of putting new seals and bearings in. Hope this helps.

Also,can someone tell me what part # 15 is for on the diagram