2 Different Electronic Component Hook Up&Wiring ??

[frankthetank]

So I need some help with wiring issues.

1st off...I am hooking up a receiver, amp, & marine speakers.

Previously I have just installed a "rocker/toggle" switch to the receiver to cut all power to the receiver and amp by the remote wire. This works fine with the exception that the receiver loses all memory of settings, radio stations, bass/treble, etc.

Is there a way to wire/power the receiver/amp so I wont lose settings? I know that cars have the accessory function on the ignition but not sure how to bypass this on the golf cart. Just don't want to drain the power. Any guidance?

2nd....I have an old TOY Voice Changer that runs off 3 AA batteries. I want to install this to run from the golf cart battery. For the kids of course:-)

I need some help from someone with electronics experience.

I found some things online about a "step-down" converter that converts 12VDC down to 5VDC. But since 3 AA's are 4.5 VDC wouldn't it be overload?

Also, I need to figure out what the safe amperage is? And finally, what kind of "mini" amplifier can/should I use to make the toy louder?

There is a simple 1 inch speaker currently connected that's probably 2 watts or so. I want a little bit larger speaker and an amp to push it.

Breakdown...type of converter? fuse? safe amperage? speaker? and amplifier? gauge of wire to use for power from golf cart to the toy?and anything i'm not thinking of.,..please

Some links to purchase what I need would help:-)

[dbmachine]

I used a blue sea 6 accessory marine fuse block with built in negative bus. I mounted the block under the factory cup holder tray. From the battery I have a 40amp fuse in between the block and the battery. Using #8guage copper positive and negative cable to connect the block to the battery. I have several accessories like led light bars, rear back up lights, horn, and stereo running to the fuse block. Each accessory has its on fuse which makes for a clean and easy install.

To power your head unit I ran the 12v constant and the negative of the headunit to the fuse block. The ignition or 12v turn on which it's also called from the headunit I tapped it into the side of the key switch that gets 12v whenever the key is switched to ON. This way you don't lose memory to the headunit. Don't remember right off hand what color wire is the one you need on the key switch. I use the speed terminals called T taps that clip onto the wire and you use a male terminal to make the connection. Again a very easy and clean install.

Hope that helps you out some. Not sure what to say for the toy voice changer.

Also the way I have the stereo wired to the key switch you have to be very careful with young kids around. With the key switch being on to be able to listen to the stereo when not on the cart, my kids have been known to step on the pedal and scare the crap out of me. 2 and 3 year olds are facinated by the big shiny pedals. Lol

[frankthetank]

cool. I was lookin at your page to see if there were any pics during your hook up for reference later.

I'll keep it in mind.

[jeff70]

Run the yellow wire directly to a constant 12v source, the yellow wire is your memory wire. the red wire from the head unit and the + wire from the amp can be run through a toggle switch

[dbmachine]

A lot of my pics were removed on photobucket because it was hacked a while back so those old threads might not have pics anymore

[frankthetank]

Gotcha.

Been a few years since, the truck, car, and cart system installs.

If I remember, I thought it was not good to run to a constant like that....as far as battery drain goes.... and that was the whole point of the remote wire.

I dunno I could be wrong.

[dbmachine]

The 12v costant which will be yellow on the radio will go to a constant 12v source. This connection draws very little current just to keep your bass/treble/radio stations/clock from resetting. Black wire is ground of course. The red wire on the stereo is the turn on circuit that powers the radio on and off. This is the wire that you don't want on a constant 12 v all the time because it will drain the battery over night usually. You can either wire this to the key switch or do like a previous member said and put on a toggle switch. Both serve the same function. Wiring your amplifier you will run + to battery and - to battery. The remote turn on wire for the amp will connect to the blue wire or blue/white stripe on the headunit.

[dbmachine]

Also if you don't wanna use the key switch or a toggle switch you can twist the yellow and red wire on the radio together and hook to the battery. This will make the radio stay on all the time but you can use the power button on the radio itself to turn it on and off. I'm not fond of this idea because over time the on/off switch gets damaged and your more prone to forget to manually turn the radio off as well and kill the battery.

[frankthetank]

So help to determine what size (amp) rocker switch to use. How do I figure this one out? It will turn on the head unit and both amplifiers.

I have quite a few rockers from 3 amp to about 30 I think

[Spicyunicorn]

Your blue wire (remote wire) should run from head unit to amp this wire tells amp when to turn on and shut off