Help with solenoid wiring - Medalist

[DubK]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

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Disconnect the Voltage reducer.
Disconnect the two blue/white wires from the keyswitch.
Disconnect the red wire from the keyswitch.
Remove the diode from the solenoid's small terminals.
Remover the pre-charge resistor from the solenoid's large terminals.

Now measure the voltage on the red jumper wire between the two microswitches on the F/R assembly.

How much voltage did you measure?

Did all of this. With the key off and in neutral, with the black lead on the battery main negative, I got 0 volts on that red jumper wire between the two microswitches on the F&R. With the key on and selector in forward I get over 38 volts.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by DubK

Did all of this. With the key off and in neutral, with the black lead on the battery main negative, I got 0 volts on that red jumper wire between the two microswitches on the F&R. With the key on and selector in forward I get over 38 volts.

The Red jumper between the two microswitches ought to have battery pack voltage on it whenever the battery charger is not connected to cart, or 100% of the time if the reed switch in the charge receptacle is bypassed, so the solenoid activation circuit is not wired correctly.

The blue wire circled in attachment-1 should be a red wire from the reed switch, or the reed switch bypass.

Wire the solenoid activation circuit in accordance with the highlighted circuit in attachment-2 and the solenoid ought to click when key is on, a direction is select and the pedal is pushed.

[DubK]

Interesting. My cart actually doesn't have a reed switch. Its a 94 medalist before they started using reed switches from my understanding. Could be wrong? Only 2 wires coming out of the charging port. The blue wire you circled on the f&r assembly that you say should be coming from the reed switch actually runs to the + terminal on the solenoid. It was like that on the old f&r and solenoid set-up and worked fine, so I wired it up the same way with the new components.

[DubK]

If it helps, here are pictures of it wired up with the old f&r and solenoid before I took them off. It worked perfectly so I wired it up this same way when installing the new stuff.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by DubK

If it helps, here are pictures of it wired up with the old f&r and solenoid before I took them off. It worked perfectly so I wired it up this same way when installing the new stuff.

If you get voltage on the red jumper when the key is on and a direction selected, it ought to make the solenoid click when you press the pedal, but the circuit wiring is still not the same as it was originally installed at the factory, since the blue wire from the battery side large terminal should have pack voltage on it 100% of the time.

I don't have a 94 Medalist schematic with the solenoid activation circuit highlighted, but here is an unmarked one. Battery side large terminal is the voltage source, goes through MS-2 to keyswitch, then to pedal switch and finally to solenoid coil.

Does the other blue wire on the F/R microswitches has voltage on it all the time. Maybe they got swapped.

Anyways, the first step is to get pack voltage on the red jumper 100% of the time.

[DubK]

Alright now that I'm off work I can fiddle with the cart the rest of the day. I got 38 volts on the red jumper wire between the micros on the f&r just now. Key off and in neutral. Maybe I measured wrong the first time. Definitely get 38 volts on that jumper wire no matter what. Get the 38 on the inner blue wire on MS2 as well. When in forward I get 38 on the outer blue wire on MS2 that you had circled on a previous post. And 38 on the orange wire when in reverse.

On the solenoid large positive (+) I get 38 volts as well. I still have the resistor and diode off. The solenoid will click without them?

On the controller I can't get any voltage no matter what unless I test with the positive lead on the battery main + and the negative probe on the large controller terminals. I get 38 volts on all 3 (B+, B-, M-) if that matters.

I tried swapping the blue wires around on MS2 and no change. Still can't get solenoid to click.

So maybe a pedal box issue? I just put a new ITS and MS3 in there and adjusted the plunger properly since it damaged the old MS3 at one point.

Does it matter that my controller doesn't have the A2 terminal so that cable coming from the top terminal on the F&R that should be going to A2 is not connected to anything. It is just insulated with a bolt in it. That's how it was running before by the way so I doubt that matters now since it was previously working that way. Sorry I'm all over the place here. Just brainstorming as I type trying to figure this out while fiddling with it. Thanks for your patience in helping me.

[DubK]

Noticed that the green wire from the pedal switch is burnt up at at this connection. Can I simply just cut the green wire on each end of the connection and splice together? It seems like this may be the reason it's not making contact and solenoid won't click.

[DubK]

Fixed! I cut the green wire and eliminated the bad connection and spliced them together and the cart works now. Such a simple problem. Thanks for your patience in helping me. If I have any issues or questions I'll be back!

[JohnnieB]

Replace the 4-pin connector with individual butt-splices or solder joints and waterproof them with marine grade (adhesive filled) shrink tubing.

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When the 4 post controller was used, EZGO ran a cable from the controller's A2 terminal to the motor's A2 terminal and another cable from the controller's A2 terminal to the F/R's C terminal. When EZGO started using the 3 post controller, they ran a cable from the Motor's A2 terminal top the F/R's C terminal.

When a 4 post controller was replaced with a 3 post one by a cart owner, the cable from motor's A2 terminal wasn't long enough to reach the F/R's C terminal, so the two too short cables were bolted together, or a new longer cable was used.

The other end of the taped up cable should be connected to anything and the cable ought to be removed, but it probably does hurt anything to leave it as is.

[DubK]

Ok I will butt splice those connections and waterproof it as you say. That cable runs from the f&r C terminal to nowhere so I'm going to remove it as I installed a cable set with the long cable that runs from the f&r to the motor A2.

Did great on the test run around the neighborhood. I automatically noticed a difference with just the 2g cables, sw180 solenoid, 350amp controller, and hd f&r. It is still 36 volts and has the stock motor but I noticed better pick-up, slightly more torque, and gained 1mph on speed.

Now to figure out this funky 12v accessory issue. Thanks again