2004 MPT driven clutch removal: Manual says "slide the clutch from the...shaft"

[JPonLKN]

Well, I am guessing there is no real wisdom on this subject, but trying to get a DRIVEN clutch off a 2004 MPT rear transaxle. It is clearly bad...turn it slowly and you can hear metal parts rolling around inside. It will upshift as I accelerate on level ground or downhill, but try to climb a hill and it won't downshift. I've been searching and there are a bunch of threads on the subject. Manual says remove the belt and bolt and "...slide the clutch from the rear axle input shaft." LOL...Yeah, right. Aint no sliding this piece of chit off nuttin. Feels like its welded on. Aluminum on steel...that is some real engineering involved here. SMH. I've hammered them off before...this one is needing a lot more convincing than a torch, sledge hammer and a section of 2x4. Wish me luck! I bet this thing outlasts this case of beer!

[trig123]

Originally Posted by JPonLKN

Well, I am guessing there is no real wisdom on this subject, but trying to get a DRIVEN clutch off a 2004 MPT rear transaxle. It is clearly bad...turn it slowly and you can hear metal parts rolling around inside. It will upshift as I accelerate on level ground or downhill, but try to climb a hill and it won't downshift. I've been searching and there are a bunch of threads on the subject. Manual says remove the belt and bolt and "...slide the clutch from the rear axle input shaft." LOL...Yeah, right. Aint no sliding this piece of chit off nuttin. Feels like its welded on. Aluminum on steel...that is some real engineering involved here. SMH. I've hammered them off before...this one is needing a lot more convincing than a torch, sledge hammer and a section of 2x4. Wish me luck! I bet this thing outlasts this case of beer!

I have had to jack them up where you can get some Kroil Penetrating Oil in there. I also use a 2x4 and big hammer .
I worked on one a few months ago and give up and went home. It just wouldn't move.
I left the Penetrating Oil soak overnight. Next morning it came off easy. I can't remember if I heated it or not but I got it off.

You can jack up one side, spray where you removed the long bolt . Let it sit and then jack up other side and spray.
The Kroil Penetrating Oil is the best I have ever used

[CP241]

If it’s bad and you’re gonna replace it, remove the bolt and ixnay the 2x4. Give er hell. It’s probably just rusted onto the splined shaft. Luckily it’s a workhorse so you’ve got plenty of swinging room.

If you want to try and save it use the 2x4 and roll the clutch around alternating approx 120 degrees per whack so you’re getting all the sides of it.


They should just slide right off. Most do. But when they’ve been sitting for a long time they can take some coaxing

And i prefer the Toyota brand “high performance penetrating oil”. I have no idea what’s in it but it can’t be legal. I’ve never found anything that works as well

[CP241]

Should be cheaper at the dealer but this is the stuff. Genuine Toyota Fluid 00530-1PL00 High-Performance Penetrating Lubricant - 12 oz. Can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C392XSI..._X9R2FbB947N0S

[JPonLKN]

Originally Posted by trig123

...The Kroil Penetrating Oil is the best I have ever used

Put some in my Amazon cart...can't get it here till the 22nd. Anyone know if any stores carry it in stock?

[JPonLKN]

Originally Posted by CP241

If it’s bad and you’re gonna replace it, remove the bolt and ixnay the 2x4. Give er hell. It’s probably just rusted onto the splined shaft. Luckily it’s a workhorse so you’ve got plenty of swinging room.

If you want to try and save it use the 2x4 and roll the clutch around alternating approx 120 degrees per whack so you’re getting all the sides of it.


They should just slide right off. Most do. But when they’ve been sitting for a long time they can take some coaxing

And i prefer the Toyota brand “high performance penetrating oil”. I have no idea what’s in it but it can’t be legal. I’ve never found anything that works as well

I'm gonna try and save it, figure out what is broke and fix it. Never know when I, or someone else might need an inexpensive drive clutch.

[trig123]

Originally Posted by JPonLKN

Put some in my Amazon cart...can't get it here till the 22nd. Anyone know if any stores carry it in stock?

I don't any stores that carry this product but you can call the company. I think they will send what you want and if you don't like it you owe nothing. Google them .
If you were to check with most any machine shop I bet they have a can sitting in the shop.

[raydhd]

Originally Posted by CP241

If it’s bad and you’re gonna replace it, remove the bolt and ixnay the 2x4. Give er hell. It’s probably just rusted onto the splined shaft. Luckily it’s a workhorse so you’ve got plenty of swinging room.

If you want to try and save it use the 2x4 and roll the clutch around alternating approx 120 degrees per whack so you’re getting all the sides of it.


They should just slide right off. Most do. But when they’ve been sitting for a long time they can take some coaxing

And i prefer the Toyota brand “high performance penetrating oil”. I have no idea what’s in it but it can’t be legal. I’ve never found anything that works as well

PTFE more commonly known as teflon

[slonomo]

Two words.....

PB Blaster

Well, two letters and a word.... Anyway, I've had some exhaust manifold bolts that were so rusted you wouldn't believe, and blaster and heat got them out. Blaster also works great on dissimilar metals with galvanic corrosion like aluminum/steel.

The trick is to spray it every few hours for half a day, let it sit overnight, heat it, then it should go. I'm not a fan of using a hammer on an aluminum clutch, but maybe with the 2x4, never tried that one. I have used dead blow and rubber mallet though. Sometimes a nice wide punch or socket on the input shaft makes enough vibration that it will loosen it.

When you finally get it off and replaced, use Anti Seize compound on the shaft, just a tad.

[JPonLKN]

Originally Posted by slonomo

Two words.....

PB Blaster

Well, two letters and a word.... Anyway, I've had some exhaust manifold bolts that were so rusted you wouldn't believe, and blaster and heat got them out. Blaster also works great on dissimilar metals with galvanic corrosion like aluminum/steel.

When you finally get it off and replaced, use Anti Seize compound on the shaft, just a tad.

Yeah, been there done that. PB and heat are not getting it done.