01-18-2021, 11:04 AM | #21 |
Test before replacing
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ohio side of the Pennsylvania border.
Posts: 3,489
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Re: '87 engine removal
Pulling the choke reduces the amount of air flow. It increases the fuel air ratio.
That means you are either getting too much air, or not enough fuel. Hope, and pray that it's not enough fuel. Not enough fuel This link shows how to open up the fuel pump to clean it, and inspect the diaphragms. https://buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=98839 Do not replace the carburetor. The cheap ones are junk. Take yours apart, and clean it. Remove the center stem, and clean every tiny orifice. Make sure the bottom of your bowl isn't crushed, and blocking the cross drilled holes in the retaining nut. Too much air Too much air could also mean not enough exhaust. Loosen the exhaust pipe at the muffler. See if it runs better that way. If so, time to clean the muffler with a hot fire. The last thing you want to hear is leaking crankshaft seals. Replacing them means removing the engine again along with the clutch, and flywheel. It's also very common. I also forgot to mention earlier that since it has a new piston, and rings your oil mix should be 40:1 for the first tank of gas. 128:1 after that. |
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01-18-2021, 12:16 PM | #22 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 41
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Re: '87 engine removal
I believe the 2 carbs I got with the cart are for an '88 model. When I look up replacement carbs for my '87 (usually they say for 82-87) they have have a float bowl vent tube and the choke arm is on the backside. My 2 carbs don't have that vent tube and both have the choke arm on top. Not sure if any of this makes a difference.
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01-18-2021, 12:34 PM | #23 |
Test before replacing
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ohio side of the Pennsylvania border.
Posts: 3,489
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Re: '87 engine removal
The vertical choke is a bv-24. The bigger carb was combined with a better muffler in 88 for an extra 2 horsepower. It will work, but my guess is that it will run slightly rich without the 88 muffler.
Now that I read my own words, maybe your exhaust really is clogged. |
01-26-2021, 04:10 PM | #24 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 41
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Re: '87 engine removal
Ok so I removed the oil injection system. Dumped the regular fuel from gas tank (cleaned tank up good), added 4gallons of 40:1 mix gas/oil. Installed new fuel pump, new 82-87 carb (had to locate the choke cable plate as I did not have one), all new gaskets.
It runs much better now. But will only get up to 8mph (governor is disconnected). Checked compression and its at only 95 psi, similar to what it was before doing top end rebuild. Don't know what I did wrong or what to check next. Any suggestions? Ryan |
01-26-2021, 05:16 PM | #25 |
Test before replacing
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ohio side of the Pennsylvania border.
Posts: 3,489
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Re: '87 engine removal
Did you try loosening the exhaust pipe at the muffler?
When it was apart earlier, did you happen to see if the pipe was all gunked up? |
01-26-2021, 05:38 PM | #26 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 15
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Re: '87 engine removal
What does it sound like? Are the variatiors opening/closing?
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01-26-2021, 08:30 PM | #27 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 41
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Re: '87 engine removal
I did try loosening the exhaust pipe before replacing the carb and fuel pump, and that did not change the way it ran at that time.
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01-26-2021, 08:34 PM | #28 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 41
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Re: '87 engine removal
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01-27-2021, 09:48 AM | #29 |
Test before replacing
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ohio side of the Pennsylvania border.
Posts: 3,489
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Re: '87 engine removal
Your buddy is right, it could take a bit to seat the new rings. Having said that, 95 isn't so bad. Mine was only 100 8 years ago. It's still screaming along.
You should be moving faster than that. You say it's running better. I'll assume that you no longer need the choke to keep it running. Maybe it's time to check the belt, and clutches. I always say a new belt is 1 3/16" wide. Anything less than an inch is junk. Take the belt off. Squeeze the driven clutch plates with your hand. You should not be strong enough to move them. If you can make the plates lean towards each other by squeezing them, the clutch is junk. Jack up the rear end. Run it, and watch both clutches. They should both move in a smooth fluid motion. The drive clutch should squeeze together, and the belt should ride all the way to the top. The driven clutch should open up, and the belt should ride to the bottom where the plates start to angle. EDIT: Reading back I remember that you had trouble removing the belt because of clearance. We need to see if the cradle is moving, and allowing the engine to move towards the driven clutch. That would cause a loose belt, and slower speeds. |
01-27-2021, 12:07 PM | #30 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 15
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Re: '87 engine removal
The variator I was referring to is the clutch he's talking about. I however do not agree with it being junk if you can move it by hand. The manual calls for you to separate it by hand in the belt removal section.... "Pull up on the drive belt and rotate the movable sheave of the driven clutch (mounted on the differential pinion shaft) backwards to separate the sheaves; then roll the belt over the movable sheave."
That's what I did when pulling my engine a few weeks ago and it worked just as they say. Since you didn't have the manual present during your removal, could this have been part of your issues? It would have been difficult to remove otherwise for sure. Is your throttle cable pinched or something? Could the throttle not be opening all the way? |
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