What am I missing for 36 to 48 Marathon?

[G8RDave]

I have a 1990 Marathon that I intend to convert from 36v to 48 volts as soon as the current batteries die (shouldn't be long). Here's what I have ready to go, what am I missing if anything:

Full set of 4 guage cables;
480 amp Logisystems controller;
48 volt White Rogers 586 solenoid:
Upgraded FNR switch (still need to order).

Obviously I'll need two additional 6 volt batteries, but I think that'll do it. I'll put the extra batteries in the bag well. For charging I'll use the current 36v charger by moving the wire upstream two batteries and charge the other two batteries with the extra onboard 12 volt charger that I already have from my boat.

Anything else that you can think of? I'm not ready to go with a full new motor. Maybe one day down the road, but not now.

[scottyb]

A helmet

[gornoman]

You need the correct precharge resistor and diode for your 48v solenoid. But before you install them, do one thing. Once you move the charge wire upstream check the primary coil voltage (small posts). I predict it will still be 36v even if you have a 48v pack. If so, you can keep using your 36v solenoid.

[G8RDave]

Gorno:

I read your thread with great interest. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/extre...uates-48v.html

It seemed to be exactly what I will be trying to do. So you're saying I don't need the 48v solenoid? Since I've already got it, I assume there is no harm in using it, right? Or will the lower voltage across the primary posts keep it from engaging? If I stick with the 48v solenoid, are these the right diodes and resistors?

Diode = 24-36-48volts 1N5404 (3amp, 400volts) Radio Shack #276-1144

Resitor = 470ohm/10watt ceramic resistor

Did you need to upgrade your FNR switch? I'd love to save that money to spend on something else for the cart.

[gornoman]

If you only have 36v in the control circuit, and it wants 48v to engage, I don't think it's gonna work. I ran on my 36v solenoid for over a year without issue. I waited until I scored a 48v charger, then I installed the 48v 586 with the new resistor and diode. As for values, I would ask Logisystems and go with their specs for them.

My F/R assembly is still stock and working fine, no heat. It is kept VERY clean....

[G8RDave]

So maybe I just need to replace the resistor across the secondary and wait and see what happens with the solenoid? When/if it dies I'll just get the 48v charger. Did you do anything with your FNR? Sounds like you didn't have to. I like the sound of that.

[gornoman]

So far, so good on the stock F/R. I edited my last post while you were typing.

[Fleck]

I converted my Marathon to 48V and ran 8-6V batteries with 2 in the bagwell. Be prepared to have a cart that WILL pull the frontend up enough to lose steering. Even more on hills or with a passenger on the back. I don't drive mine on the street as much as I would like (illegal in New Jersey), But I do alot of offroading and the extra wieght in the bag well made my cart very hairy when climbing hills. Depending on your usage you may want to use 6-8V batteries so they are all under the seat. The draw backs are that you will need a 48V charger and the saying is the more lead in the sled the longer it will last (run time). I've ran both ways and haven't seen any differrence except for better handling. You will love the 48v setup. Mine is a tourque monster that will pull the 25" tires of the ground and climb a tree is you want. Good luck and keep us posted.

[iaefebs]

Heavy duty leaf springs? I am guessing that if you are giving up the bagwell area you are adding a rear seat. You already decided to use 8 6volt instead of 6 8volt for charger reasons? You will use the chargers you have on hand. This will give you extended run time right? I was going to go the other way and buy 6 8volt and upgrade the charger with a newer 48 volt with the money saved from the extra 2 batteries. I would still have the bagwell area for whatever.

[gornoman]

If that works for you, do it.