Need help with new solenoid

[DesertDeuces]

Originally Posted by scottyb

I guess it is too late to tell Gramma to run and hide from this cart
Previous owner sounds like a dangerous fool!

I don't mind a good challenge, so I'm willing to dig in and work on this heap.

I did a lot so far. Ain't quitting yet. Seems all that's left is a good education on the Forward and Reverse, Solenoid and Controller. Then, I should be in good shape with this cart.

And, stop calling me Gramma or I'll have to help you walk across the street

[DesertDeuces]

I think I just found an answer to my original question - in the sticky post Basic Ezgo electric golf cart wiring and manuals.

There's a wiring diagram for the speed control board that illustrates the setup I need to use with the type of solenoid I bought - the 586. Helps a lot!

And, what I'm going to do is take off that spade connector that's on the old solenoid terminal post that goes to the ignition and put it on the new solenoid. This way, I'll never make a mistake on the wiring and can easily connect or disconnect the ignition wire.

Thanks for your replies!

[scottyb]

But Wait You can't just run 48v on a resistor cart
You can't do it unless you are willing to run it full throttle or nothing ...... would you like to talk about this?

[DesertDeuces]

Originally Posted by scottyb

But Wait You can't just run 48v on a resistor cart
You can't do it unless you are willing to run it full throttle or nothing ...... would you like to talk about this?

Yes I would like to talk about it. I didn't tell you guys I'm a grandma for nothing

I know nothing about golf carts. I'm learning as I go. and it's not an
"easy go"-ing for me

I will accept any and all legitimate help I can get

Thanks, scotty!

Pat

[scottyb]

I can give you as much information as you can absorb

Early carts ( pre 89-90ish) used a size graduating group of speed resistor coils to regulate speed. When you stepped on the gas 100% of the available battery power (amperage) was drawn and speed was regulated by how much of this amperage was burned off (wasted) by the resistor coils. So even if you push the peddle a little it drains the batteries same as wide open throttle. The gas peddle operated a wiper which swept a contact across stationary lugs which connected to the resistors. The solenoid merely switched power on /off to the speed wiper.
This is why it does you no good to just upgrade the solenoid....

Modern carts use solid state speed control. These controllers only draw as many amps as you ask for with the peddle.... If you push the peddle down 10% they deliver 10% of their capacity. I say their capacity because a controller is like a gate valve (or a hose bib) to the amperage stored in the batteries... We have different size controllers(valves) available so 10% of a 400 amp is less than 10% of a 650 amp controller. Amperage = Torque.
The solid state controller does not waste any amps and this increases the run time.Hope this helps?

All of that being said ....... You can not put 48v thru a resistor cart without melting one of the components I mentioned above eventually, period. We have pictures.

Any questions

[Flintrock]

"Any questions "

Yeah. IS Mark a HE??

[scottyb]

I don't think so

[DesertDeuces]

Originally Posted by scottyb

I can give you as much information as you can absorb

Early carts ( pre 89-90ish) used a size graduating group of speed resistor coils to regulate speed. When you stepped on the gas 100% of the available battery power (amperage) was drawn and speed was regulated by how much of this amperage was burned off (wasted) by the resistor coils. So even if you push the peddle a little it drains the batteries same as wide open throttle. The gas peddle operated a wiper which swept a contact across stationary lugs which connected to the resistors. The solenoid merely switched power on /off to the speed wiper.
This is why it does you no good to just upgrade the solenoid....

Modern carts use solid state speed control. These controllers only draw as many amps as you ask for with the peddle.... If you push the peddle down 10% they deliver 10% of their capacity. I say their capacity because a controller is like a gate valve (or a hose bib) to the amperage stored in the batteries... We have different size controllers(valves) available so 10% of a 400 amp is less than 10% of a 650 amp controller. Amperage = Torque.
The solid state controller does not waste any amps and this increases the run time.Hope this helps?

All of that being said ....... You can not put 48v thru a resistor cart without melting one of the components I mentioned above eventually, period. We have pictures.

Any questions

Thank you very much for that info. After what I've been reading about solenoids, I can understand what you're saying. I read that a automobile solenoid gets power only until the car starts, but a golf cart solenoid gets 100% all the time, even at slow speed it's getting same power as it will at a high speed, and that's why solenoids often burn out.

So, here's the thing: The way the cart was set up when I bought it - worked. Upgraded motor and 48 volt batteries on original solenoid, speed controller and F&R. Worked fine for at least 6 years. And, I had the solenoid tested at the golf cart store yesterday - still works.

BTW: The speed control contacts are in good shape. I checked them. I would suppose that means the solenoid was the right size for them.

I don't understand why my cart won't start. I think I'll recheck the wiring, put the old 36 volt solenoid back in and see what's up. If it doesn't fire up, where do I look?

[scottyb]

Before you pull the new solenoid check to see that it is getting a positive and a negative feed to the 2 small terminals. It doesn't matter which is which, just one gets pos and the other gets neg to activate the solenoid. If not check the F&R microswitch.

[DesertDeuces]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Before you pull the new solenoid check to see that it is getting a positive and a negative feed to the 2 small terminals. It doesn't matter which is which, just one gets pos and the other gets neg to activate the solenoid. If not check the F&R microswitch.

I never installed the new solenoid, scotty. I came here first to ask for advice on how to install and you warned me about the voltage, so I didn't install it.

However, I ran a continuity test on the microswitch. It's running current with the switch up and when I depress the switch, it cuts off. So it appears that switch is fine.

The shop tested my old solenoid. It checked out fine.

I just have a nagging feeling that a wire might have been loose (ign. to sol. slipped off too easy). I hope that's the prob.

Anyway, after your advice, I just want to run it as it was and not use the 48v solenoid. Hey, if it worked for 6 years and didn't melt anything, maybe I can just keep it that way, goofy as it seems to be set up.

Thanks again. I'll let you know if it works.