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04-01-2008, 03:01 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Matanuska Susitna Alaska
Posts: 20
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Engine/clutch removal 295, 350
First time I've ever tried this. Wanted to add some pics I looked for before I started this. I'm confident I'll miss some details.
This is what I started with (350) covered in dried oil (1/2" in some places). This is the motor replacing it, (motors and more 325, (bored out 295) First I removed the battery, airbox, carb, wires, gas line, rubber drain line to the case, coil, starter bolt, belts, exhaust manifold, and linkage rods. |
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04-01-2008, 03:11 PM | #2 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Matanuska Susitna Alaska
Posts: 20
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Re: Engine/clutch removal 295, 350
Heres a close up of the wires
Coil I backed out the 4 bolts holding the skid plate on with a 5/8" wrench and broke the 4 bolts going into the side of the case loose. Then I placed a jack under the engine and brought it up to support the base. Removed the 4 bolts holding the engine in the carriage and lifted the engine out. Once the engine was out I removed the bolt holding the clutch to the tapered shaft and using Diver's advice; cut a 4" piece of 5/8" bar and purchased a 3/4" fine thread x 2" bolt. I know its not an impact socket, I used what I have. I put the bar in the clutch hole, followed by the 3/4" bolt and drove it in with a impact gun. The gun was only set on 75psi and popped it right off. Spent the rest of the evening scraping oil and prepping the new engine. |
02-27-2016, 03:27 PM | #3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: rogers city mi
Posts: 33
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Re: Engine/clutch removal 295, 350
I will add a much easier way to get ANY sliding clutch off and have done it for years with sleds. Water simple h2o and a bolt with teflon tape. remove the clutch bolt and get a cup of water pour it in the hole till full tip a smite out get the bolt cover end in teflon tape and send it in with an impact or breaker bar. Simple hydrolics can't compress a liquid it will come off and no steel in there so no worries about mucking up the shaft.
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07-28-2016, 02:31 PM | #4 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Lewisburg, Louisiana
Posts: 142
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Re: Engine/clutch removal 295, 350
Tried a 3/4" bolt but it would not go in the hole (missing by a frog hair). Same clutch as above. What am I missing?
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07-28-2016, 03:25 PM | #5 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Lewisburg, Louisiana
Posts: 142
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Re: Engine/clutch removal 295, 350
We got it. Once we cleaned out the threads the bolt started and popped off the clutch.
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01-20-2017, 05:22 PM | #6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Grass Valley, CA
Posts: 2
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Re: Engine/clutch removal 295, 350
The hydro trick works! Did this yesterday. Should have blown out the dirt behind it cause it made mud.
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07-26-2017, 10:51 PM | #7 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 71
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Re: Engine/clutch removal 295, 350
All the pics are missing. Can we get the pics back please?
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09-18-2017, 11:14 AM | #8 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: England.live in a small Hamlet(village) poulation28
Posts: 101
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Re: Engine/clutch removal 295, 350
Thanks for the info, do you still have the pictures? I am about to remove my engine, need direction on holding down bolts, and location, on ezgo txt gas 1996
Rockinr382 |
11-12-2018, 04:24 PM | #9 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2
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Re: Engine/clutch removal 295, 350
I got a 3/4 fine and it did not work and it looks to be the same clutch
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11-12-2018, 07:52 PM | #10 |
Gone Insane
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 14,215
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Re: Engine/clutch removal 295, 350
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