88 electric marathon rear diff fluid change

CodyPatt · 10-30-2013, 01:10 PM

I've been searching thru old threads and am seeing many differences answers on what oil to use and what level to fill the rear with oil.

Mine has a bottom cover with no drain bolt, had to remove cover to drain. The fill plug is located near the vent tube ontop of the differential. Only a small amount drained out when I dropped the pan. I went ahead and filled up the diff with 10w30 oil an filled until it came out the plug ontop of the diff.

Maybe it's just me but the cart seems to not have as much top speed as it had before and I'm wondering if it's due to too much oil in the diff causing a drag on the cart.

What is the correct method for this 88 cart? I am the third owner so no telling if it had ever been done correctly in the past

Thanks in advance!

Sir Nuke · 10-30-2013, 01:34 PM

none of our carts have a DRAIN plug. The amount of oil that goes in the differential per the manual, is 10 oz. the manual also shows the oil to be straight 30 wt motor oil. but a LOT, and I mean a LOT of us, use a heavier gear oil, such as 75 wt or 90 wt.

kernal · 10-30-2013, 01:54 PM

According to this chart 30wt crankcase oil has about the same VISCOSITY as 80-85 wt gear oil.

Dave Box · 10-30-2013, 02:04 PM

A 1988 EZGO is no really going to care that much what you use however to be strictly correct you should use a 75 - 90 weight gear oil. Confusion arises as the Society of Automotive Engineer (SAE) have two different standards for engine oil and gear oil. Straight 30 weight engine oil has the same viscosity as 80 weight gear oil. You might then ask why certain manufacturers recommend straight 30 weight engine oil in both the engine and the differential. This is an economy measure (read cheap here) as it simplifies their stock inventory. In addition, it isn't going to hurt your wallet to buy the best synthetic gearbox oil for your cart but it will affect the cart manufacturers bottom line if they use anything other than the most cost effective lubricant. It should be noted that engine oil and gearbox oil have different properties suited the the tasks they have to perform. Engine oil is loaded with cleaners and dispersants whilst gearbox oil is designed to have greater resistance to shear forces. As I said it really isn't going to make that much difference if you run your back axle on something else but if you are going to do the job right then...... well you get the idea. One final point. No one will recommend a 10w 30 oil, this is because the oil is designed to start at 10 weight when cold and then act as a 30 weight as the engine heat increase the molecular polymer length. Without the heat from the engine you will be running your back axle with a 10 weight lubricant. It really is not the end of the world but if you were to change the oil again a regular 75 weight gear oil would be best.

Dave

yurtle · 10-30-2013, 03:18 PM

Learned something today. I went with 90 gear oil, and wondered about the debate between 30 and 90. Didn't even think about the oils being referred to were different kinds, I just assumed everyone used gear oil.

CodyPatt · 10-31-2013, 12:59 PM

Thanks for the info! Looks like I need to remove some of the oil since I added over a quart. Rather not have to drop the pan again but that's the only way to get it right and allow me to sleep

yurtle · 10-31-2013, 01:08 PM

I'm certainly no expert, but I'd simply remove the plug and if nothing comes out, sleep happy. Afterall, this isn't like engine oil with a positive displacement oil pump.

kellybell · 10-31-2013, 01:11 PM

FWIW, I used 75 wt gear oil in mine.......

bigstik40 · 11-01-2013, 06:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yurtle

I'm certainly no expert, but I'd simply remove the plug and if nothing comes out, sleep happy. Afterall, this isn't like engine oil with a positive displacement oil pump.

Totally agree. Just remove the plug, let it drain (cart on level surface), replace the plug and it should be good-to-go. I use that plug as a combination drain/fill plug by sucking the old oil out and then add new oil using a turkey baster and vinyl hose. The big gear teeth "dip" into the pool of oil and oils the upper gears by tooth to tooth transfer. Also, gear oil for gears, engine oil for engines is what I follow. - RAY

Jamesn71 · 08-20-2021, 12:13 PM

Dumb question here. I took all the bolts out beat the hell out of it with rubber mallet and still wouldn't come off. Next step is to take a drywall knife and tap/hammer it under the lip? Is there a gasket for it or do you just make your own with sealer?

10-30-2013, 01:10 PM	#1
CodyPatt Not Yet Wild Join Date: Feb 2012 Posts: 7	88 electric marathon rear diff fluid change I've been searching thru old threads and am seeing many differences answers on what oil to use and what level to fill the rear with oil. Mine has a bottom cover with no drain bolt, had to remove cover to drain. The fill plug is located near the vent tube ontop of the differential. Only a small amount drained out when I dropped the pan. I went ahead and filled up the diff with 10w30 oil an filled until it came out the plug ontop of the diff. Maybe it's just me but the cart seems to not have as much top speed as it had before and I'm wondering if it's due to too much oil in the diff causing a drag on the cart. What is the correct method for this 88 cart? I am the third owner so no telling if it had ever been done correctly in the past Thanks in advance!
CodyPatt Not Yet Wild Join Date: Feb 2012 Posts: 7

10-30-2013, 01:34 PM	#2
Sir Nuke Master of All Things Join Date: May 2013 Location: West Columbia, Texas Posts: 17,976	Re: 88 electric marathon rear diff fluid change none of our carts have a DRAIN plug. The amount of oil that goes in the differential per the manual, is 10 oz. the manual also shows the oil to be straight 30 wt motor oil. but a LOT, and I mean a LOT of us, use a heavier gear oil, such as 75 wt or 90 wt.

10-30-2013, 02:04 PM	#4
Dave Box Respect the Cart Join Date: May 2010 Location: Rocky Mount, Virginia Posts: 2,190	Re: 88 electric marathon rear diff fluid change A 1988 EZGO is no really going to care that much what you use however to be strictly correct you should use a 75 - 90 weight gear oil. Confusion arises as the Society of Automotive Engineer (SAE) have two different standards for engine oil and gear oil. Straight 30 weight engine oil has the same viscosity as 80 weight gear oil. You might then ask why certain manufacturers recommend straight 30 weight engine oil in both the engine and the differential. This is an economy measure (read cheap here) as it simplifies their stock inventory. In addition, it isn't going to hurt your wallet to buy the best synthetic gearbox oil for your cart but it will affect the cart manufacturers bottom line if they use anything other than the most cost effective lubricant. It should be noted that engine oil and gearbox oil have different properties suited the the tasks they have to perform. Engine oil is loaded with cleaners and dispersants whilst gearbox oil is designed to have greater resistance to shear forces. As I said it really isn't going to make that much difference if you run your back axle on something else but if you are going to do the job right then...... well you get the idea. One final point. No one will recommend a 10w 30 oil, this is because the oil is designed to start at 10 weight when cold and then act as a 30 weight as the engine heat increase the molecular polymer length. Without the heat from the engine you will be running your back axle with a 10 weight lubricant. It really is not the end of the world but if you were to change the oil again a regular 75 weight gear oil would be best. Dave

10-30-2013, 03:18 PM	#5
yurtle Gone Mad Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Buford, GA Posts: 8,988	Re: 88 electric marathon rear diff fluid change Learned something today. I went with 90 gear oil, and wondered about the debate between 30 and 90. Didn't even think about the oils being referred to were different kinds, I just assumed everyone used gear oil.

10-31-2013, 12:59 PM	#6
CodyPatt Not Yet Wild Join Date: Feb 2012 Posts: 7	Re: 88 electric marathon rear diff fluid change Thanks for the info! Looks like I need to remove some of the oil since I added over a quart. Rather not have to drop the pan again but that's the only way to get it right and allow me to sleep
CodyPatt Not Yet Wild Join Date: Feb 2012 Posts: 7

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10-31-2013, 01:08 PM	#7
yurtle Gone Mad Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Buford, GA Posts: 8,988	Re: 88 electric marathon rear diff fluid change I'm certainly no expert, but I'd simply remove the plug and if nothing comes out, sleep happy. Afterall, this isn't like engine oil with a positive displacement oil pump.

10-31-2013, 01:11 PM	#8
kellybell So wild it hurts! Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Atlanta, Georgia Posts: 1,412	Re: 88 electric marathon rear diff fluid change FWIW, I used 75 wt gear oil in mine.......

08-20-2021, 12:13 PM	#10
Jamesn71 Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2021 Posts: 22	Re: 88 electric marathon rear diff fluid change Dumb question here. I took all the bolts out beat the hell out of it with rubber mallet and still wouldn't come off. Next step is to take a drywall knife and tap/hammer it under the lip? Is there a gasket for it or do you just make your own with sealer?
Jamesn71 Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2021 Posts: 22

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