97 DS with2 solenoids--controller backfeed??

[smokey tennis shoe]

A 97 Ds 48 volt powerdrive plus. This has 2 solenoids, 1 is the power displacement module.

Let me clarify, you need to look at both a 97 and also a 98 powerdrive plus wiring diagram, in order to see the correct wiring.
This cart is all stock, and is a combination of the 2 diagrams.

I have the 3 wire f/r switch, the tow switch and the same controller as shown on the 98 diagram.
However the 2 solenoids look and are wired EXACTLY as shown on the 97 diagram.

So with that info, this is where i need help. The main positive wire from battery # 1 positive, to the main solenoid, was badly corroded at the battery terminal. So the guy replaced the wire, only this one wire, nothing else. Cart was running fine before he replaced this wire.
After replacing the wire , cart will not run, at all.

I have 50.1 volts at batteries. Both solenoids will click . If i attach my volt meter to the pack negative, turn on the key, step on the pedal, i get 49-50 volts on any solenoid terminal i touch. Both solenoids, and both the small and large terminals, get the 50 volts positive!!

So i am wondering why i am getting this positive voltage on the small negative terminals??

I have the 95 service manual that both the 97 and 98 say to use, In that manual, they show the old controller that is on the 97 diagram with the "Z" terminals. My cart and the 98 diagram have a different stock controller, so following the wire are a little diffacult.

The guy said when he installed the new wire, he attached the battery end of the cable first. So that makes me think he smoked or arc something. He says no, and i cannot see any type of arc marks anywhere.

The solenoids seem to be ok and work, ie after about 20 seconds of non use they drop out and the big terminals then have NO continuity between them.

I was going to remove he controller and send it to be rebuilt, but there are no labels of any kind on this controller, The manual says it is a curtis with club car number 1018879-01 48 volt 225 amp.

Any input as how and why i get these readings on all solenoid terminals?

[smokey tennis shoe]

anyone have an idea regarding how to trace this problem down?

[glassk]

Test Procedure 8 - Dynamic Braking Solenoid Activating Coil
1. With key switch ON and Forward/Reverse switch in FORWARD, place Tow/Run switch in RUN. Using a multimeter
set to 200 volts DC, place the red lead on battery No. 1 positive post and the black lead on the brown wire at the
dynamic braking solenoid small post. With the accelerator pedal up, the reading should be less than 1 volt. With the
accelerator pedal depressed, the reading should be 48-50 volts (full battery voltage).

[smokey tennis shoe]

glassk, thanks for responding. I will try that procedure tomorrow (tuesday), when i am at the cart.
I have been testing with my volt meter black on the main pack negative, and touching the red probe to the terminals.

It looks like the diagram shows the controller bring a negative to the solenoid? If that is what the diagram shows, that is why i was thinking the controller was bad and not supplying a negative.

I will try what you posted, and see what i find. I will report back tuesday evening after i get home.

Thanks for your time.

Anyone else who is willing to input, please do, this older 2 solenoid system is not something i have seen before.

[mardad]

This may help.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...8-v-regen.html

[Sergio]

If You can measure pack voltage on both solenoid small posts, that means the controller is not providing the "negative" side of the solenoid.

But that conflicts with your statement that "both solenoids will click", unless you meant that they click with an outside jumper.

This thread has specific tests and links to another thread with more diagnostic posts.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1181243

[smokey tennis shoe]

Thanks for the help guys. Tomorrow i will be at the shop and will try some of these tests, and will report back.

Does anyone know what controller this cart has? There are no markings on it, but it looks like the one in the wiring diagram.

[smokey tennis shoe]

Sergio,can you tell me how to do the obc by pass , to perform these tests?

[Sergio]

If You look at the wiring diagram, the OBC on the Regen model provides +48v on the Blue wire to the harness.

As long as You have power on the solenoid small posts, reverse buzzer or key switch, the OBC is not in lockout and does not need to be by-passed.

[smokey tennis shoe]

Sergio , this is what i did today, please tell me if i did this correctly, and if this makes you think the controller is bad :

First I unplugged the obc connector. I then installed a paperclip in the harness end of that plug, between the red wire and the blue wire.

Next -tow switch in run, key on, fnr in forward, then :

on pin # 1 red wire, i had 48 volt
on pin # 2 orange / white wire i had 48 volt
on pin # 4 white wire i had 48 volt.

THEN I stepped on the pedal and had 48 volt on pin # 3 green / white wire.

All the above with negative meter probe on pack negative.

I THEN PLACED THE POSITIVE METER PROBE ON MAIN PACK POSITIVE,
and place my negative meter probe on controller pin # 11 blue / white wire.
Then stepped on the pedal, got nothing. So in your opinion, does this mean the controller is bad? If so, i will send it in for rebuilding.??

Please verify. thanks