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Gas Yamaha Gas Yamaha Golf Cars; G1 through "The Drive" and U-Max Utility Vehicles



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Old 08-04-2016, 06:52 PM   #11
Golf cart guy
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Default Re: Belts and clutches - Yamaha G2

Trash that drive clutch, the face of the clutch is wasted
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Old 08-04-2016, 07:23 PM   #12
smallblock450sl
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Default Re: Belts and clutches - Yamaha G2

The dreaded "Comet" primary clutch
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Old 08-04-2016, 08:46 PM   #13
sho305
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Default Re: Belts and clutches - Yamaha G2

Its taken a lot to get mine acceptable on my clone, ended up cutting a lot of length off the spring to get it to work better. But mine is a ribbed model. Worst part is I've had it off there like 20 times changing stuff in it. Pretty soon the cover will just fall off when I take it off.
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Old 08-14-2016, 11:04 AM   #14
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Default Re: Belts and clutches - Yamaha G2

I read all of the replies and so much of this nomenclature is foreign to me, that I have a hard time understanding what you all are talking about.

I've built cars and trucks from the ground up, yet I am having trouble following this stuff. Makes me feel like a rookie!

Circlip? Spacer? Secondary shaft spacer? Ramps? Can anyone pinpoint this stuff or show me a diagram or link that I can read?

Also, does anyone have a part # for the UMAX spring?

Thanks
Shawn
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Old 08-14-2016, 12:43 PM   #15
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Default Re: Belts and clutches - Yamaha G2

Go to tntgolf.com I think it is, look up yamaha parts and your model, transmission. It shows a parts diagram that will break it down for you. The umax spring is listed under a newer yamaha cart a G22 Gmax, or Umax the utility spring. One is a work cart for golf courses and such the other is a utility cart and yamaha made a rhino version of the cart at one time also. There are threads on here listing number if you search yamaha gas for umax spring. Umax was the yamaha utility cart they still make a version but now have different clutches in new models iirc.

Behind the secondary (trans clutch) is a clip that keeps the clutch from sliding into the trans case. This clip can fail, it will fail for sure with a stronger spring pushing on it. The spacer sits on the splines not the clip slot, it will not break or bend its way heavier. The ramps are on the moving sheave of the secondary if you look at the back side, you will see plastic pads on the spring perch that ride on them. Some call the ramps the helix (in sleds they do). This is how the clutch detects engine torque, that makes it down shift under power so it revs up and with no torque from engine it shifts out to cruise quietly at low rpm. The preload you wind on stock spring dictates how far it shifts out, if you wind more preload it will stay revving all the time even at part throttle. The B-4 is the holes in the sheave and spring perch that you can see when its apart, then you wind it to the next ramp (about 120 degrees or 1/3 turn) and press the ramps together and figure out how to get the key in and nut on. Using different holes (A,B,C,1,2,3,etc) to hold the ends of the spring will change the degrees of preload you end up with, B-4 is the stock setting and works well for many, iirc C-1 would be the next stiffer setting. I usually use a 1x4 or similar to hold it on and get the key and nut on.

Needless to say the secondary has to work right to get the power to the ground and its really important when you have limited power in a GC. The umax spring is stronger so it puts more pressure holding the sheaves together, the primary clutch has to rev more to force them apart and let it shift up. This gives more power at low to mid speeds mostly and more grip on the belt. For our trail use and towing and other stuff you don't do while golfing, this spring works much better. Hope that helps explain, feel free to ask questions, carts are too much fun to sit waiting for repair.....here are some umax threads:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-y...ax-spring.html
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-y...rt-number.html
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