Carryall 1 - Lots of pics/questions

[nwocart]

ordered a steeleng kit, i have eyelet bottom shocks. the kit comes with teh plates for studded bottom shocks. I ordered studded bottom shocks and plan to run it like that. not sure it will matter. now to keep an eye out for some wheels and tires.


the rest of this cart is covered in rust. have been spraying penetrating oil on every bolt and nut that I can find to aid in any disassembly / replacement. not fun, but most of the bolts will be simple, just a matter of getting them out / cutting them off / etc

[BobInOK]

I'm not as fast as I use to be but yesterday I spent almost 4 hours taking the rear bumper off my 95 DS. Only 4 bolts but rusted bad enough no way were the nuts coming off those Phillips head bolts. Not enough room under neath to get anything in to cut the nuts off too close to the aluminum frame for a torch. I attacked them from the top with a drill and angle grinder with a cut off disk. Pretty much destroyed the bumper but wasn't going back on so no big loss.

I do not envy your task, have allot of experience with rusted bolts but not being able to use a cutting torch sure complicates things.

[CP241]

If you look at the rag joint (shaft with a couple U joints on it between the steering rack and the steering column) you'll probably see where it's either worn, or where the u joints are binding and bottoming out (or both). You may be able to adjust it so it doesnt bottom out anymore and it will help. Or you may need to just replace the rack. Neither are expensive parts to replace.

[nwocart]

Originally Posted by CP241

If you look at the rag joint (shaft with a couple U joints on it between the steering rack and the steering column) you'll probably see where it's either worn, or where the u joints are binding and bottoming out (or both). You may be able to adjust it so it doesnt bottom out anymore and it will help. Or you may need to just replace the rack. Neither are expensive parts to replace.

My plan is to crawl underneath and try to turn the steering wheel or at least get someone to turn the wheel for me while i'm underneath the front end. probably a wore out piece, only seems to catch every once in a while but its annoying enough that I want to fix it

[nwocart]

i have attached a picture of my lift question from this thread:

**Also helpful to read the whole thread, because i will reference the first two pictures**

https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=140540



Am I correct in thinking I will not need to use that horizontal stud sticking out the back, and I can just use shocks with studs on each end and go through the plate (just like how I installed this SGC lift on my DS).

The first two pics in the thread kind of show this, but I am really confused as to if the triangle piece with the horizontal stud (part of the frame/where the engine mounts) just stays underneath the axle like the picture i attached, or if it is supposed to be removed?


EDIT Its early, I am just waking up and I think i finally figured it out after re reading again. My rear end will look just like the attached picture with the stud sticking out the back and will remain underneath the axle. My new shocks (with two studs) should be fine because the plate that they mount to should come with my kit, and gets placed on top of the axle.

i think

[Fairtax4me]

Yeah if you got the brackets for the later style shocks then you can just cut those old studs off if you really want to.

Steering... hopefully it's just the U-joint coupler. Look behind the drivers front wheel and you'll see it. Check the U-joints for play. Usually pretty obvious if you grab it with your hand and twist it back and forth just a bit. You'll see them move, or feel them click.
If no play, Spray the joints with some WD40 or other penetrating oil and turn it back and forth a dozen times and spray it again. Usually that helps. Like CP said, there is an adjustment in the middle, and sometimes it helps to loosen that and spin it a few times to make sure it's loose then tighten it back up.
The other option is the rack is full of dirt and it's puckered inside and those are kinda expensive.

[nwocart]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Yeah if you got the brackets for the later style shocks then you can just cut those old studs off if you really want to.

Steering... hopefully it's just the U-joint coupler. Look behind the drivers front wheel and you'll see it. Check the U-joints for play. Usually pretty obvious if you grab it with your hand and twist it back and forth just a bit. You'll see them move, or feel them click.
If no play, Spray the joints with some WD40 or other penetrating oil and turn it back and forth a dozen times and spray it again. Usually that helps. Like CP said, there is an adjustment in the middle, and sometimes it helps to loosen that and spin it a few times to make sure it's loose then tighten it back up.
The other option is the rack is full of dirt and it's puckered inside and those are kinda expensive.

I started spraying the u joints with penetrating oil two days ago when doing the bolts. Today doing a short cruise I didn’t feel the catching in the steering. I’ll keep Lubing and monitoring and will advise.


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[nwocart]

Found something else interesting today as to why my hour meter doesn’t change - it only has one red wire into the meter. The wire comes out of the black box and goes into the bottom of the meter.

It appears that the red wire should slide right off the bottom of the meter (it looks like a female connector). However it doesn’t come easy (most likely corrosion) and I didn’t force it because I wasn’t sure. It also looks like there should be a second male terminal next to it and it appears to be broken off. I’m assuming the wire out of the black box runs the hour meter when the pedal is pushed in and the broken off terminal is a ground?


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[nwocart]

I have attached a picture of the hour meter in case anyone knows how that should be hooked up.




Also attached a picture of the brake linkage... I think I figured out why the brakes barely work. That appears to be too long of a spring, I'm guessing the original spring broke so they found that one and made it work. At least its an easy fix.