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Old 08-09-2012, 08:25 PM   #1
sonnysmith
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Default resistor getting hot

I'm working on a 1996 ez go DCS cart.
The problem is,the resistor get hot with nothing hooked up but 6 ga. wires.
It all started with the cart not running.found bad controller,had that rebuild.
replaced that part,still would not run.found no voltage on pin 7. I had voltage on the wire till I hooked it to the controller,nothing.Had voltage all the way back to reed switch.
Then for some reason that I can't tell, It started to work for a few min.I stopped for the night,when back out the next morning and nothing again.
Had a real hot smell,that's when I found the hot resistor.So far now I'm still trying to figure out why.
All help will be appreciated.

Sonny
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Old 08-10-2012, 05:13 AM   #2
JohnnieB
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Default Re: resistor getting hot

With DVM's negative test lead attached to B-, Run/Tow in Run, F/R in F or R and key switch ON, you should read B+ at Pin-7 until throttle microswitch closes, then it should go to zero and solenoid activates. (The controller activates the solenoid by applying B- via Pin-7, which would measure as zero volts since the DVM is referenced to B-)

If the voltage at Pin-7 drops to zero before throttle is pushed, either the controller is bad, or something is telling it to turn on when it shouldn't be.

If only the high current cables (6Ga wires) are connected to solenoid, the solenoid contacts will be open and with the controller being turned on all the time, abnormally high current will be passing through the resistor across the solenoid contacts.

I may be wrong, but based on the limited information given, that is my guess.
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Old 08-10-2012, 08:23 PM   #3
sonnysmith
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Default Re: resistor getting hot

JohnnieB
Thanks for your reply.This make sense to me.
I found the first problem and It could save others from a long time of looking.If for some reason there is no voltage on pin 9, INSIDE the wiring harness about 2"away from the forward switch,there is a connection of 4 wires.In my case they had corroded to the point of not making connection.Now that is where all my problems started.My voltage reading were all over the place. I'm pretty sure that some of my work took some part of the controller out.
Now to ask JohnnieB another question. If the controller is bad,will I still have the voltage drop when when the accelerator is pushed ?? I do have voltage on the #7 pin and when I push the peddle,I still have voltage,no lost what so ever. I may not be able to write what I'm asking,but maybe you can read between the line.
Thanks so much to you JohnnieB.Your input, put me on the right track.I think all I need now is a working controller.

Thanks for all on this forum.
Sonny
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Old 08-10-2012, 11:06 PM   #4
scottyb
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Default Re: resistor getting hot

So you had a bad sonic weld, that happens and the first one I found took me hours! What the heck were they thinking!? I'll tell you what they were thinking, we can save $1 here and the cart only has to last a 5yr lease

Now, are you saying that the solenoid clicks now ?
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Old 08-11-2012, 07:13 AM   #5
JohnnieB
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Default Re: resistor getting hot

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonnysmith View Post
..............
1. If the controller is bad,will I still have the voltage drop when when the accelerator is pushed ??

2. I do have voltage on the #7 pin and when I push the peddle,I still have voltage,no lost what so ever.....................

1. Activating the solenoid is but one of the many things that the controller does, so the answer is: Maybe.

2. The voltage (B+) you are reading on Pin-7 starts at B+ on battery pack, goes through Reed switch, Run/Tow switch, F/R switch, Key switch and finally through the Solenoid coil to get there. What the controller does is connects Pin-7 to the negative side of the battery pack, completing the current path and energizing the solenoid coil.

Having B+ on Pin-7 tells the aforementioned switches and the solenoid coil are good.

The throttle microswitch is what tells the controller to connect Pin-7 to B-.
It does it by putting B+ on Pin-5, however there must also be B+ on Pins 6, 9 & 10 for it to happen.

In a nutshell, you have to have B+ on Pins 5, 6, 9 & 10 to tell the controller to close the solenoid contacts.
If those conditions are met and Pin-7 is staying high (at B+), the controller is bad.
If those conditions are not being met, troubleshoot the missing voltage.
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Old 08-11-2012, 08:40 PM   #6
sonnysmith
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Default Re: resistor getting hot

ScottyB,you are so right about the cost of a connection,and I wish,I had only spent 2or3 hours on finding the problem. I thank you for the help.

Now JohnnieB,You don't know how much your information helps me. I sure wish you had (in a nutshell) for checking both PDS and series. that would save me hours of looking. I can read a meter and follow a wiring diagram,just don't always know where to look.

Thanks for all the help.
Sonny

Ps all checks tell me it's a bad controller.
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Old 08-12-2012, 07:28 AM   #7
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Default Re: resistor getting hot

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonnysmith View Post
...................I sure wish you had (in a nutshell) for checking both PDS and series. that would save me hours of looking. I can read a meter and follow a wiring diagram,just don't always know where to look..................
Being able to read a meter and follow a wiring diagram is about a third of the battle, figuring out where to put the meter leads and what the meter readings actually mean is approximately another third and knowing, or being able to figure out, how the thing is supposed to work is pretty much the rest.

From what I've read here, I believe lack of focus causes a lot of wasted time and creates a lot of frustration.
For instance, a poster will state the solenoid isn't clicking, yet includes voltage readings between M- and B-.
Those are two separate circuits and the solenoid has to click before voltage readings in the high current circuit are meaningful.

I believe the first step in troubleshooting a dead cart is listening for the solenoid to click when throttle pedal is pushed.
If it clicks, the problem is in the high current circuit.
If it doesn't click, the problem is in the solenoid activation circuit.

The next step is to check the battery pack and individual battery voltages.

Those two steps can be reversed, but most people have their ears with them all the time, while few have a DVM on their person 100% of the time.

Solenoid activation nutshells:

Series carts. Entirely external to controller.
Basically, a half dozen or so lengths of wire connecting four switches and the solenoid coil in series between B+ and B-. (Three switches if Reed switch is bypassed)

Resistor carts. Same as series carts except solenoid coil is in middle of the series chain and B- is connected through motor's field windings.


PDS carts. Controller activates solenoid, but 5 external switches must be closed at same time to tell the controller to do so.
1. Reed Switch. B+ to J1-P4.
2. Key Switch. Shorts J1-P8 to J1-P9
3. F/R Switch. Shorts J1-P1 to either J1-P2 (R) or J1-P3 (F)
4. Run/Tow Switch. Shorts J3-P1 to J3-P2 and J3-P3 to J3-P4
5. Pedal Switch. Shorts J4-P1 to J4-P2

All the pins listed above must measure B+ to get solenoid to close, with following exceptions:
Only J1-P2 or J1-P3 needs to be at B+ (P2 if F/R is in R and P3 if in F)
J3-P3 & P4 might be Logic level voltage (15V) instead of B+ (I've never measured it. )

Continuity of the individual switches can be checked with an Ohmmeter by pulling plug(s) and measuring between pins in plug as listed above.

DCS carts. Sort of a hybrid between PDS and series with a little lunacy mixed in.
However, fairly easy to troubleshoot since B+ must be present on Pins 5, 6, 9 & 10 and the source for each is B+ at the battery.
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Old 08-12-2012, 02:47 PM   #8
sonnysmith
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Default Re: resistor getting hot

I would like to thanks all that has helped me with this problem.
I know I will always have to hunt an peck and ask questions while working on golf carts,but this will not stop me from enjoying the challenge.
So all you men that have more knowledge than I. Please keep the information coming.
A big thanks to all that have helped.

Sonny
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