EZGO TXT information requested

[cptaylor]

I've got an EZGO TXT (not sure what year it is). it's a 36V unit.

It has sat up for a few years due to problem. I recently got it and started messing around with it. The battery charger for it was shot and I repaired it.

I assume the batteries will need replacing due to sitting up but I was able to get them to charge.

I've been going through it and found a few problems that have been fixed.

The reason it was stored was because it had a problem going in reverse and sometimes, when going forward, it would stutter or wouldn't go, or just stop going. There were no problems with it then, I think it had two or three new batteries in it at that point and the others were going to be replaced within the month.

I checked the battery connections and they are solid.

I've got the back raised up right now with the wheels of the ground. Here is where I am so far and what info I need.

I can press the pedal and the wheels will move about 1/8 of a turn. Same in reverse.
Does the motor directly drive the wheels or is there some type of clutch/gear box or something that it drives?

or is there something else I need to be checking.

I hate to ask first, not wanting to be a spoon fed member without looking at other threads first. I was looking at the other threads for wiring diagrams, troubleshooting, etc, but didn't know which ones applied to my cart. If someone could point out which ones pertain to my cart would be extremely helpful.

Thanks for any help and input....

[Dela]

First things first - you'll want to post your serial number - located in passenger side glove box, this will allow the board to help you further

[yurtle]

Links:

Owner's, Parts, and Service Manuals:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...g-manuals.html

Dana Axle:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...5-28148g01.pdf

Golf Cart Serial Number Lookup:

http://www.shopezgo.com/customer-ser...ialNumber.html

Controller/Motor Type:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...-ezgoguide.jpg

[scottyb]

The last 2 digits of the manufacture code are the yr it was made. Select your drive system from the chart below. Then we will know what cart you have.

[cptaylor]

First, thanks for the replies everyone, that means alot.

Last two digits are 63. From the pics, it seems to be a "series" setup. I've had to replace those "switches" once before.

I can post the entire SN if required.

Inquiry: What is the black box called?
Again, I've been looking at several of the diagrams and troubleshooting recommendations, but a few of the terms throw me off.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by cptaylor

First, thanks for the replies everyone, that means alot.

Last two digits are 63. From the pics, it seems to be a "series" setup. I've had to replace those "switches" once before.

I can post the entire SN if required.

Inquiry: What is the black box called?
Again, I've been looking at several of the diagrams and troubleshooting recommendations, but a few of the terms throw me off.

Not the serial # the manufacture code. Does the solenoid does not click when you press the gas?

[cptaylor]

Man. Code is C1897.

Yes, the solenoid does click when you press the pedal.

[scottyb]

You have a 97 series cart. It is a TXT model. See if the controller is powering up. Test leads on B- and M-. 36v when the solenoid clicks and then voltage dropping to 0 there when the peddle is depressed.

[cptaylor]

B- and M-
No volts, press pedal little, solenoid clicks, 36 Volts, press the pedal down slowly while monitoring Voltmeter, voltage decreases. When it's pressed all way down, I read about 3 to 4 volts. Voltage goes back up as I release the pedal. Once the pedal is all the way back up, solenoid disengages. I will still read about 30 something volts there, but it starts decreasing, kinda like a capacitor discharging.

[cptaylor]

I disconnected the batteries from the system so no power is going to anywhere.

I then labeled and removed the wires to the motor. Mine are marked "S2 and A2 from the top, and S1 and A1 on the bottom.

I check resistance between S1 and S2 and read less then 1 Ohm. I did the same for A1 and A2 and read less than 1 Ohm. I then S1 to A1 and A2 and read very high megaohms (basically, open). did the same between S2 to A1 and A2 and again, very high resistance (open).

I am assuming that S1 and S2 on mine are the same as F1 and F2 from the ezgo diagnostics page:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...agnostics.html

So the motor windings seems good. Only thing I did not like is while I was removing the wires, I notice the studs themselves would rotate on two of the terminals. So I'll have to keep that in mind on the motor.

What else should I check, voltage at the motor while pressing the pedal?
Again, it seems the motor has some type of gearbox built on the end, is this correct? Cold there be a problem in there?