Solenoid getting very hot

[Nicksel1]

Originally Posted by Sir Nuke

well I have a high speed motor in mine......last Wednesday I made a non-stop 11 mile run, at 3/4 to full speed for the whole time, except for the stop signs now and then......I had a full pack when I started, and one hour after I stopped, the pack was at 90%....I had a lot of juice left.

Stupid question. Is 90% left mean 90% of 36 volts left? Like 32.4 left? I've never checked...... Wonder how much efficiency I'm losing if any due to "bottleneck" in the solenoid or just plain heat buildup???????

[Sir Nuke]

not exactly, in a 36v cart, when fully charged and settled, it will actually be at 38.2 or .3 volts......so 90% SoC is 37.9v

SoC Chart.JPG

[Sir Nuke]

Originally Posted by Nicksel1

Stupid question. Is 90% left mean 90% of 36 volts left? Like 32.4 left? I've never checked...... Wonder how much efficiency I'm losing if any due to "bottleneck" in the solenoid or just plain heat buildup???????

all of the above

[JohnnieB]

Anything getting hot is a bottleneck and is robbing power from the motor.

Theoretically, the only part of the drive system that will have a temperature rise is the motor, but in reality, the controller isn't 100% efficient, the contacts in the solenoid and F/R switch aren't perfect and the cables have intrinsic resistance, so everything warms a bit.

The stock solenoid is only an 85A unit, the stock controller will pass 275A and the stock high current cables were 6Ga.
The Plumb Quick motor can draw more amps than the stock motor and the 2Ga cables can pass more amps than the 6Ga ones, so the 85A solenoid, which is marginal even in a completely stock setup, became a significant bottleneck and got really hot.

If you foresee a 500A or larger controller in the future, or pack voltage higher than 36V, go with the SD (400A/1000A) solenoid.
With a little "adjusting" of its mounting holes, it fits on a stock mounting bracket.
The studs for the contacts are 3/8 instead of 5/16, so the holes in a couple cable lugs will have to be "adjusted" also, but the coil works on 36 to 48 volts, so you don't have to charge the solenoid when you up the pack voltage.

[Nicksel1]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Anything getting hot is a bottleneck and is robbing power from the motor.

Theoretically, the only part of the drive system that will have a temperature rise is the motor, but in reality, the controller isn't 100% efficient, the contacts in the solenoid and F/R switch aren't perfect and the cables have intrinsic resistance, so everything warms a bit.

The stock solenoid is only an 85A unit, the stock controller will pass 275A and the stock high current cables were 6Ga.
The Plumb Quick motor can draw more amps than the stock motor and the 2Ga cables can pass more amps than the 6Ga ones, so the 85A solenoid, which is marginal even in a completely stock setup, became a significant bottleneck and got really hot.

If you foresee a 500A or larger controller in the future, or pack voltage higher than 36V, go with the SD (400A/1000A) solenoid.
With a little "adjusting" of its mounting holes, it fits on a stock mounting bracket.
The studs for the contacts are 3/8 instead of 5/16, so the holes in a couple cable lugs will have to be "adjusted" also, but the coil works on 36 to 48 volts, so you don't have to charge the solenoid when you up the pack voltage.

Yea I would like to upgrade to 48v when my battery's start to get old. Ill do the big sd solenoid this week then the hd f/r switch then the controller.

Question, seems I've read you can run 48v system on a 36v motor. Is that right?

[shaffer88]

Originally Posted by Nicksel1

Yea I would like to upgrade to 48v when my battery's start to get old. Ill do the big sd solenoid this week then the hd f/r switch then the controller.

Question, seems I've read you can run 48v system on a 36v motor. Is that right?

You read correctly!!!! And the order you mentioned is a good one sounds like to me. . When you call Scottyb mention your plans to him he sells package deals. . So it may give you something to think about

[Sir Nuke]

Originally Posted by Nicksel1

Yea I would like to upgrade to 48v when my battery's start to get old. Ill do the big sd solenoid this week then the hd f/r switch then the controller.

Question, seems I've read you can run 48v system on a 36v motor. Is that right?

True, not a problem

Seeing as how you already 2 ga cables, one thing to keep in mind when going from 36v to 48v, when you are looking at batteries. IF you are going to be doing 6-8v batteries, many/most 8v batteries have both posts on the same side of the batteries, so some of the battery cables will end up being a little short, IF you go with 8-6v batteries, you will just need a few more, either way you will need to get a few more cables to make up your cable set.

[Nicksel1]

Originally Posted by Sir Nuke

True, not a problem

Seeing as how you already 2 ga cables, one thing to keep in mind when going from 36v to 48v, when you are looking at batteries. IF you are going to be doing 6-8v batteries, many/most 8v batteries have both posts on the same side of the batteries, so some of the battery cables will end up being a little short, IF you go with 8-6v batteries, you will just need a few more, either way you will need to get a few more cables to make up your cable set.

Advantages of either configuration???

[scottyb]

Less weight to 6/8v

[Sir Nuke]

Originally Posted by Nicksel1

Advantages of either configuration???

with the 6-8v batteries, they will fit in the stock battery tray. if you go with 8-6v batteries, you will hve to custom fab some hold down and room to place them if you want them all under the seat, not to mention moving the comtroller/solenoid to somewhere else.... OR some guys have have put the 2 other batteries in the bag well, which is fine if you don't use the cart for golf and have no real need for the bag well. That configuration (8-6v) does tend to give you a little longer range .... it just depends what you need or want to use your cart for. I personally am still at 36v, but will go to 48v in the future and will do 6-8v's, but even with my set up and my high speed motor, I still have a range of 15 to 16 miles and STILL have battery left before I plug it in, and seeing as how the motor draws fewer amps at 48v my range will be even higher......I would be willing to bet I can get 20 miles without a problem.