Replaced 750 ohm resistor with a 680 and now cart won't budge

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by slubera

Solenoid not clicking but cart will go if I jump the solenoid with a screwdriver.

This is how You responded on the other thread about the same Question:

Originally Posted by slubera

Solenoid is clicking. Everything is wired as it was. I plugged in the quick disconnects as they were....black to black, white to white.

Stick with one thread.

The other thread I gave You a few ideas on what to test if the solenoid was not clicking.

But it can be the OBC lockout as well.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by Sergio

But it can be the OBC lockout as well.

Sergio it's a 36 Volt car.

Slubera, Did you knock one of the wires off of the micro switch inside the V-Glide when you were working on the resistors?

[slubera]

I don't think I knocked any wires loose. I did check that, thinking one could have come loose or been pinched while trying to re-attach the cover. Since I can jump the ignition, does that mean the problem is inside the v-glide?

[TahoeDawgZ71]

If the solenoid doesn't click, but the car runs when the solenoid is bypassed it means that either the solenoid is bad or the solenoid activation circuit has a break in it somewhere. Whether it be in the microswitch in the v-glide, micro on the F&R switch, in the keyswitch, or in the wiring somewhere. The circuit is either incomplete or the solenoid has failed.

[slubera]

I'm an idiot. Come to find out, a wire to the solenoid was knocked loose. DUH. Thanks for all the help.

[tag50]

Wow, I've never done anything like that. Ah, well, nothing that I will admit to.


.

[Sergio]

I am glad You got it working, I am guessing it had to be the Yellow wire (normally the OBC lockout on a Series cart) since the Controller gets its power from the Solenoid activation circuit.

[slubera]

It was actually the green wire.

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by slubera

It was actually the green wire.

Wow, safety designs in these controllers have come a long way....

I already knew (from helping a previous member) the old 36v controller when the throttle resistance was removed (total failure), the controller would default to a run condition, that is bad.

The green wire is key Key Switch power, so that means even if You don't provide the Controller activation voltage on Terminal #1, the controller will allow the motor to run if the Solenoid was welded, that is really bad.