New to the site

[CC350]

Hi all, this is my first post on this website. I decided to join because most of the Google searches I've made for technical issues lead me here. I just bought two Carryall Club Cars, One is a 2007 Carryall 6 and the other is a 1997 Carryall II plus. They both are pretty much the same with the FE 350 Kawasaki engine, as far as I can see except for minor things.

But anyway, I'm having a charging issue with the 97 model and the engine surges up and down. Also, the throttle is hard to feather without jerking the cart to full throttle when in gear. I have replaced the voltage regulator, and that didn't change anything, and the micro switch has a zip tie on it where the plastic throttle cam is in the electrical box. When I took the zip tie off and gave it throttle, it would kill the engine. I'm not shure what the next step is.

Sorry for the long post, Thank You.

[ericandrews331@msn.com]

Pull both cables see if they move freely by hand

[CC350]

AS far as the cables go, they all move freely. I forgot to mention to, the Engine surges until it levels out at full throttle. I used a digital Tach and I'm at 3300 rpms high Idle in neutral no load as you would call it. Could this mean that the Governor in the trans have wear and need a rebuild. The hour meter stopped working at 6000 hrs, when ever that was LOL! Thanks for the replies

[meimk]

Lots of people play with the governor, to speed the carts up, without knowing what they are doing. If you could have someone push the accelerator pedal (or block the pedal down part way) and check the cable from the governor to the carb. Is it pulling the throttle butterfly back and forth? Can you hold it steady at the carb by hand and smooth out the rpm's at less than full throttle? Before you start tearing into things we need to see if it's just the way the governor is set.

[CC350]

Hi meimk, Yes the governor is pulling the throttle back and forth surging. It did come to mind like setting the governor on a old briggs engine where you loosen the clamp bolt on the arm, and turn the shaft to seat the weights inside, but i'm not sure if that's how this setup works. I did try this method by rotating the shaft counter clockwise, and taking up the slack in the throttle cable going to the carb, but it didn't make any difference, and when i rotated the shaft clockwise, it made it worse.
Another thing is, even when i move the throttle by hand, the engine doesn't rev up smooth and when i adjust the idle screw on the carb, it makes no difference. I can't get it to idle above 600 rpms. It's like it's either wide open or nothing.

[CC350]

I pull the carb off ,and it wasn't that dirty inside. I took everything apart that I could, and blew out the passages with starting fluid and compressed air except i didn't pull the nozzle out wear the main jet is. I'm wondering if the idle circuit is still plugged causing it not be adjusted with the screw. I'll pull it off again double check it again.

[CC350]

I finally figured out what was causing the problem. When took the carb off today, whent through it again, but this time I looked closer at the Idle jet. The inlet hole was completely clogged with brown crystal crust, so I used a torch tip cleaner and finally got it opened up, put everything back together, started it up and was able to adjust the idle. Now it runs totally different ! No more surging and is smooth on starts. Here is a pic of the Jet

[ericandrews331@msn.com]

Originally Posted by CC350

I finally figured out what was causing the problem. When took the carb off today, whent through it again, but this time I looked closer at the Idle jet. The inlet hole was completely clogged with brown crystal crust, so I used a torch tip cleaner and finally got it opened up, put everything back together, started it up and was able to adjust the idle. Now it runs totally different ! No more surging and is smooth on starts. Here is a pic of the Jet