Flux Capacitor

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Newbuggyboy

Bob what is not too long?

Would 6v be less damaging?

What increase in speed are we talking about? The you tube video says @3mph.

How does it burn up the motor more than doing a 48v conversion and keeping motor?

Because by running the Armature and Field in parallel with the same pack instead of in series, you are effectively running the motor at twice the voltage. A 24V pack would be like running a 48V pack. It was a quick and easy way to turn series carts into monsters at the track... How long it lasts depends upon how hard you abuse it. 36V motors tended to run quite well on 24V when paralleled, but did not last too long when run on 48V when paralleled. We did this a lot to old resistor carts... no FNR switch or controller. Just on and off with solenoids. Wide open!

[Newbuggyboy]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

Because by running the Armature and Field in parallel with the same pack instead of in series, you are effectively running the motor at twice the voltage. A 24V pack would be like running a 48V pack. It was a quick and easy way to turn series carts into monsters at the track... How long it lasts depends upon how hard you abuse it. 36V motors tended to run quite well on 24V when paralleled, but did not last too long when run on 48V when paralleled. We did this a lot to old resistor carts... no FNR switch or controller. Just on and off with solenoids. Wide open!

I'm confused.

Doesn't the wiring in the diagram show that the extra voltage is added to the motor along with the 36v?

The video showed a 3 mph gain.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Newbuggyboy

I'm confused.

Doesn't the wiring in the diagram show that the extra voltage is added to the motor along with the 36v?

You are talking about one thing, I am talking about another

[Newbuggyboy]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

You are talking about one thing, I am talking about another

Well I am confused. You are way over my head.

Help me understand. Is there a 101 class for beginners?

Is the type of thing safe?

Is it ok to do? And cause no/minimal harm?

I don't want to hurt Einstein (the dog in back to the future.)

[Newbuggyboy]

So I keep foolishly looking at this and here is where I am. Have no clue if I'm right? If you can help me out please do. Note right now I plan to just my cart running with the normal 36V set up. Once it is working properly then I'll attempt this.

Pack boast - to boast solenoid big post -
Boast solenoid big post + from joined 3 wires F/R bottom to M- wire, and boast pack +, and Diode 300U40A. This is also connected to the controller M- via diode.
Pack boast + to B- controller
Pack boast + (small wire) to solenoid little terminal +
Boast switch (pedal or button) negative - to boast solenoid little -


S1 36V F/R Right or 48V from 36V F/R Right & 12V boast
A1 36V controller B+
S2 36V F/R left
A2 36V F/R top to controller then to motor

[BobBoyce]

If I understand you correctly, you are attempting to stack voltage (from an added battery) in series with the controllers current controlled output to increase the voltage to the motor. There are few things to consider.

First... Can only be done with series drive systems. SepEx will not be able to correctly map the motor field if you do this

Second... The added battery would have to have the same capacity as the batteries in your existing battery bank.

Third... The back EMF while driving, and Regen during decel, from your motor will be at the elevated voltage. So if you come out of boost mode while in motion, your motor will overvolt the controller and likely kill it.

If you are just trying to speed it up without upgrading to 48V, you can try the technique that I mentioned earlier. We've not used it for street use, but there is no reason that it will not work, IF your controller is beefy enough to supply the current to get you to the speed that you want to reach. With a 36V pack, the motor will react as if you put in a 72V pack without actually doing that. A 500 or 600 Amp Alltrax controller could really wake it up and turn it into a beast, if your existing pack and cables can deliver the current. Remember, this trick only works on series motors, not SepEx.

[Newbuggyboy]

It is a 91 Marathon

First Ok is this series?

Second use two X 6V

Third explain/show how it is going back 2 controller. (Use baby electrical talk) Also can I prevent it?

Bob thanks a million

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Newbuggyboy

It is a 91 Marathon

First Ok is this series?

Second use two X 6V

Third explain/show how it is going back 2 controller. (Use baby electrical talk) Also can I prevent it?

Bob thanks a million

Yes, it is series.

Voltage is not as important as amperage capacity. Any string of batteries in series must be matched in capacity. Otherwise, they will not stay in synch with one another as they discharge. Simple terms... the higher capacity batteries cells will degrade when in series with lower capacity batteries, until they match the lower capacity batteries.

As long as a motor is spinning, it generates a back EMF (voltage) that nearly matches the applied voltage when you reach the point that the motor cannot spin any faster. This is why the motor cannot spin faster. To spin it faster, you must raise (boost) the voltage. The motor will then spin faster and raise the back EMF generated, until it nearly matches the applied voltage once again. When you switch off boost, the motor is still generating the higher back EMF, which immediately flows back through the controller to motor cables, destroying the controller due to overvoltage.

That is as simple as I can put it. I'm an engineer, so I tend to think of things in more complicated terms.

[Newbuggyboy]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

Yes, it is series.

Voltage is not as important as amperage capacity. Any string of batteries in series must be matched in capacity. Otherwise, they will not stay in synch with one another as they discharge. Simple terms... the higher capacity batteries cells will degrade when in series with lower capacity batteries, until they match the lower capacity batteries.

As long as a motor is spinning, it generates a back EMF (voltage) that nearly matches the applied voltage when you reach the point that the motor cannot spin any faster. This is why the motor cannot spin faster. To spin it faster, you must raise (boost) the voltage. The motor will then spin faster and raise the back EMF generated, until it nearly matches the applied voltage once again. When you switch off boost, the motor is still generating the higher back EMF, which immediately flows back through the controller to motor cables, destroying the controller due to overvoltage.

That is as simple as I can put it. I'm an engineer, so I tend to think of things in more complicated terms.

Ok so my swimming pool has a backflow value. It only let's the water flow in one direction. I forget my design from school days. We designed the controls for an elevator. Is there away to put a resistor/? to suck up that extra voltage.

[Newbuggyboy]

Or maybe a diode.

Diodes can be used as rectifiers, signal limiters, voltage regulators, switches, signal modulators, signal mixers, signal demodulators, and oscillators. The fundamental property of a diode is its tendency to conduct electric current in only one direction.

So I'm wondering do I just need to limit the voltage over 36V back to controler?