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06-10-2010, 08:39 PM | #11 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: delaware
Posts: 33
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Re: 1995 36 volt club car motor wont run
thanks shadowman... what kind of damage could have been done? broke wire going to the brushes? and once the motor is off, how do you take it apart? pictures or vid?
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06-10-2010, 10:51 PM | #12 |
The Last Moja Morani
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: jumping from cart to cart
Posts: 8,975
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Re: 1995 36 volt club car motor wont run
2 of the studs go to brushes and the 2 cripes i,m having a brain fart, the setup is just about like a gas starter but bigger the brushes are twice the size of gas jobs.............disconnet main power and if you didn,t have all the cables off hit those studs with some PB blaster and sit for awhile.................i know you can buy all the internal parts even just studs if needed.......................and they might sell a kit ( they used to ) biggest help either have a manual or at least diagrams to help you along............good luck keep us posted..................................
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06-10-2010, 10:57 PM | #13 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: delaware
Posts: 33
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Re: 1995 36 volt club car motor wont run
Great Sir... Thanks again. I will try and take it apart tomorrow, if not next week... we are going away for the weekend
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06-10-2010, 11:06 PM | #14 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 2,757
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Re: 1995 36 volt club car motor wont run
2 go to the Brushes as Shadow said, the other 2 go to the field. If you broke one of the ones going to the brushes, instead of replacing just the stud, I would suggest replacing the brushes completely. Yes, it costs a little more (ok a lot more), but since you already have it apart, you might as well "refresh" it completely. While you are at it, gove the motor bearing a good spin as well and listen for any odd scraping noises. Again, you are already in there so now is a good time to replace anything that may go bad in the near future.
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06-10-2010, 11:12 PM | #15 |
The Last Moja Morani
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: jumping from cart to cart
Posts: 8,975
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Re: 1995 36 volt club car motor wont run
thats it rabbit the fields..........hey rabbit in the fields......................lol.........also agree with going over and replacing minimum the brushes and bearing if not sure once apart use brake cleen and a compressor and clean the crap out of it...................make sure you didn,t damage the brush holder rig as its not hard to do......................
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06-10-2010, 11:18 PM | #16 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: delaware
Posts: 33
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Re: 1995 36 volt club car motor wont run
again thanks guys i will let you know the outcome...
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06-16-2010, 11:48 AM | #17 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: delaware
Posts: 33
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Re: 1995 36 volt club car motor wont run
ok , i took the motor apart last night and sure enough the solder joint between the stud and the coil wire broke.... i resoldered it and the motor works now... proplem #2 now that its back together theres a lot of jerking in the rear in forward and reverse... so today im going to pull the motor again and have my wife tow me around to find out if its the motor or the rear doing this...
p.s. its not the cart thats in the picture... it a new used one thanks |
06-16-2010, 06:18 PM | #18 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 2,757
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Re: 1995 36 volt club car motor wont run
Good to know you found that problem. Just wondering, while you had it apart did you do as we suggested and check your brushes and bearing? The jerking you are talking about, is it only at startup or is it doing it all the time while driving?
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06-16-2010, 06:51 PM | #19 |
The Last Moja Morani
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: jumping from cart to cart
Posts: 8,975
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Re: 1995 36 volt club car motor wont run
i don,t know if this will cause that but you have to use silver solder when doing the motor........................................
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06-17-2010, 12:00 AM | #20 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: delaware
Posts: 33
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Re: 1995 36 volt club car motor wont run
the jerking is all the time forward and reverse.... and i used silver solder
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