09 YDRE Solenoid Puzzle

[ThatSloanGuy]

Information:
2009 Yamaha YDRE

Bought it from a guy that said the “controller was bad” so he threw it away. I bought the service manual for it to wait while I ordered a used controller in working condition off eBay.

Here in lies the issue,
With the controller hooked up, I’m still not getting any click from the solenoid when it is powered on. Ohm’d my tow/run switch, forward reverse switch, and key switch, and everything is less than 0.5 ohms. I have bench tested my solenoid and 48v will engage the contacts and I measure almost 0 ohms between big posts.

I found the throttle position sensor to be out of spec and ordered an aftermarket one that was a little cheaper (I know, I know, lesson learned.) In the meantime, I also found the reverse buzzer not working. I verified post circuits were intact and ohm’ed good. I think the buzzer itself is bad because I hooked it up across pack voltage directly and didn’t get anything.

Is there something I can do to verify this is in fact my issue or am I doing something wrong? The service manual says 5k between two of the post all the time and 100 ohms - 5k on the other combination. I’m getting 250 ohms and only 50 ohms that doesn’t change.

[cgtech]

The service manual has been wrong for YDRE since day one (they keep telling me "we'll fix it in the next issue of the book"). Look at the other thread on goofy throttle, I explained how to test it.


http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=162737

[ThatSloanGuy]

Originally Posted by cgtech

The service manual has been wrong for YDRE since day one (they keep telling me "we'll fix it in the next issue of the book"). Look at the other thread on goofy throttle, I explained how to test it.


http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=162737

I’ll check that out when I get home. Could that cause the solenoid not to engage when the switch is turned on? I can jumper from B- to negative on the course trol and the solenoid will engage and have ohmed the cable from the solenoid to the pin output from the controller and it as less than 0.5

[cgtech]

Should not cause that. When tow/run flipped on, solenoid should briefly engage, then shut off. Also, anytime tow/run is on, pushing the cart around should cause solenoid to engage + cart should try to stop you from pushing it. I'm not all that confident in that used controller at this point.

I also think you might want to remove that motor & disassemble for a look inside. A bad motor can easily kill a controller, or make it do other bad stuff that makes controller look bad. If you do this, take many pics.

[ThatSloanGuy]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Should not cause that. When tow/run flipped on, solenoid should briefly engage, then shut off. Also, anytime tow/run is on, pushing the cart around should cause solenoid to engage + cart should try to stop you from pushing it. I'm not all that confident in that used controller at this point.

I also think you might want to remove that motor & disassemble for a look inside. A bad motor can easily kill a controller, or make it do other bad stuff that makes controller look bad. If you do this, take many pics.

Update time! I need your help if you’d don’t mind. I printed out the electrical diagram and was working my way through checking every connectionans half way through I realized I didn’t test the speed sensor on the motor. I unplugged it and what do you know? The solenoid clicks and it goes forward and reverse.

These speed sensors are something I haven’t had to mess with much. Since unplugging it made the cart come alive, should I just order the one part for it and replace it?

[cgtech]

Yes, it is either mis-wired, or shorted (dragging down the 5v bus)

[ThatSloanGuy]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Yes, it is either mis-wired, or shorted (dragging down the 5v bus)

I’ve got a new one on the way and it drives great in the meantime - thanks for the help!