G1 Torque Kit Woes

[sho305]

The center shaft needs to have grease so it slides easily, the weights/pins/links/rollers/whatever you have....most of that stuff you are not supposed to lube, but it wears out. It can also collect dirt so you don't want oil all over. What I do is put superlube (its like synthetic chain lube) on just the pivot points and not that much, that way the links/pins don't wear out as soon. Don't forget to check out the secondary too.

[DirtDiggler]

To follow up- the clutch has continued to work better and better, until- the cotter pin that I reused (duh) broke and the castle nut backed off allowing the rear outer sheave to fly off. It looked fine so I put it back together but every since I put it back together it hasnt worked right and seems to be binding. I raised the cab and watched it- the belt drops deeper into the groove on one side of the pulley than the other causing it to go deeper and then shallower into the pulley as it rotates. (but it does level out at higher rpm). The only think I can figure out is the outer sheave must be "leaning" a little causing an inconsistant distance between the inner and outer sheaves as they rotate- makes it shake badly on takeoff and then tries to bind. I am thinking I will need to replace both sheaves with new yamaha ones. Am I missing something? Should I consider sheaves other than the OEM ones?

[sho305]

I would look at it closely, should be able to tell if they are moving closer to each other/back out. Also make sure its not worn out they can actually break off when they get thin enough from belt wear and by that time they are dished in enough they don't shift well anyway. Make sure the taper is clean and key in there right. I'd recommend a new nut, and you have to get that tight a taper needs to be clean and tight to hold correctly. If you can't get one take a punch and dent the nylon part of the nut in (iirc its nylock?) so it turns harder like a locknut should. Could also have messed up the belt take it off and inspect that it is not out of round/twisted/etc. The alum sheaves wear out the steel ones don't. If they are worn it should shift better with new on there, the angle of the sheave to belt side is part of the tuning that makes it shift right. You will never wear out another one at least, if so you need a sand guard under it.

Edit: actually the shoes are on the sheave not the ramps? Then it needs shoes on both sides.