1991 Gas G-9 Problems ( HELP )

[rose88]

I have a 1991 G9 that I cannot diagnose the running problem. It will try and run and spit and sputter. 1 time it ran perfect for 30 seconds and then back to spitting. I have done the following:

1. cleaned the carb and started with new fuel still the same thing.

2. Installed air filter because there was none.

3. checked all connections.

4. Set valve lash @ .004 intake and exhaust

5. checked oil level to make sure it wasn't over full.

6. Checked the compression 160 lbs.

I thought it was bad fuel or water in the fuel. It does generate oil smoke and smells like its burning oil. Maybe the oil ring is bad? The air box had oil in it as well as the plug. I installed new spark plug and sutted it right up instantly. I stripped the coil wire back and it shoots a good blue spark about 1/2", but when you install any kind of spark plug boot it acts like its loosing spark. Starts out strong and then fades?? I thought it may be the flywheel key getting it out of time?? I am at a stand still here. So this is where you come in maybe I am missing something??

thanks
Richard

[bigstik40]

Of the 3 things necessary for good running (compression, spark at the right time & fuel), you have confirmed only one as ok.
(That would be good compression at 160 PSI). You now need to sort out which of the other two could be the culprit. You have put a cloud of doubt on the spark issue, but no confirmation as to if it's good or bad. I think I would go for a new (or cleaned) spark plug and a new plug wire & confirm that good spark appears at the plug with plug wire connected to plug. Try running again if spark appears good. If condition persists, I would then check the fuel pump, starting with the pulse line coming from the crankcase. Make sure that it's not plugged (that can happen with gunk from the crankcase) and the connections are tight. Also check fuel lines in and out of pump for cracks and assure tight connections. Try running again and report back. I'm sure others will have more good suggestions. Good luck.

[smallblock450sl]

2 thing's I would suggest. The negative battery cable (at the starter/generator) has an 18 gauge wire "pigtailed" into the eye end, cut the wire off and put an eye end on it and attatch it onto the stud with the negative cable. The reason being, the ignition system is based on open and closed ground, bad/intermittent ground...loss of spark. Second, I would think is a bad ignitor. Do you have another car you can switch them out? I have seen ignitors spark for moments/minutes, then lose spark when the circuit board has current flow and a soldier on the printed circuit board flows away, only to regain spark once its cooled down. Good luck, let us know what you find.

[rose88]

Good point !! that is where I have a weak spark when I check it thru a new plug. Just the bare wire it's great. Thanks for the help

[rose88]

Originally Posted by smallblock450sl

2 thing's I would suggest. The negative battery cable (at the starter/generator) has an 18 gauge wire "pigtailed" into the eye end, cut the wire off and put an eye end on it and attatch it onto the stud with the negative cable. The reason being, the ignition system is based on open and closed ground, bad/intermittent ground...loss of spark. Second, I would think is a bad ignitor. Do you have another car you can switch them out? I have seen ignitors spark for moments/minutes, then lose spark when the circuit board has current flow and a soldier on the printed circuit board flows away, only to regain spark once its cooled down. Good luck, let us know what you find.

Will check that tomorrow

thanks

[rose88]

Ok finally got to work on this hoopty again! LOL

When I push the accelerator all the way down the motor turns over and a good spark and then the motor acts like its running out of juice? Maybe the battery? and the spark stops, when the motor starts back going the spark is back.

[rose88]

Originally Posted by smallblock450sl

2 thing's I would suggest. The negative battery cable (at the starter/generator) has an 18 gauge wire "pigtailed" into the eye end, cut the wire off and put an eye end on it and attatch it onto the stud with the negative cable. The reason being, the ignition system is based on open and closed ground, bad/intermittent ground...loss of spark. Second, I would think is a bad ignitor. Do you have another car you can switch them out? I have seen ignitors spark for moments/minutes, then lose spark when the circuit board has current flow and a soldier on the printed circuit board flows away, only to regain spark once its cooled down. Good luck, let us know what you find.

Zoom Zoom Zoom!! You da man. I ran a ground jumper to the battery and spark was perfect no loss of fire runs good. Thanks for the advice