Rev limiter, zip tie, & engine protection

[CCinGA]

ok.....so I see a lot online around speeding up the cart, but I think the experts are here!

If I ziptie the spring and leave the rev limiter in place, am I pretty much guaranteed not to destroy the engine? What is the rev limiter set at before "bouncing occurs? 4100, 3900, 3000......I have read a lot of different things. I know I can add a tach later....looking now.

My GPS is showing about 14 MPH downhill or flat....up hill around 9MPH with kids on the back seat.....or when I am alone.

I would like 20MPH or so.......very hilly neighborhood and a busy "main" neighborhood road.

I know this is covered, but in many spots and with inconsistent info across the board (like looking at primary run off info )

[kgsc]

You are never guaranteed not to blow it up. I have the 400 Kawasaki and keep the tach at 4k or less. Was told bad things happen above that.

[ezgo on fire]

I zip tied mine to were the rev limiter will kick in going down hill for a long period. I think they kick in at 4300. Not sure. Me personally I don't think 4000 hurts these motors at all. I get 20 mph out of mine with 20" tires

[kgsc]

Depends on the motor. I think the ezgo Robbins can spin a little faster and be happy where the Kawasaki maybe not as much.

[PIB-My-Ride]

Originally Posted by CCinGA

If I ziptie the spring and leave the rev limiter in place, am I pretty much guaranteed not to destroy the engine? What is the rev limiter set at before "bouncing occurs? 4100, 3900, 3000......I have read a lot of different things. I know I can add a tach later....looking now.

My GPS is showing about 14 MPH downhill or flat....up hill around 9MPH with kids on the back seat.....or when I am alone.

Defeating your governor means you can ask much more of your engine, which of course, isn't good for longevity. I think nearly everyone here will agree that keeping clean, quality oil in the engine, clean, quality fuel in the tank and the revs below 4,000 are key in getting a reasonably long life from your engine. If I wanted to make sure my engine lasted absolutely as long as possible, I would re-enable the governor. I like speed though, so I decided that revs<4000 was a fair compromise.

It all depends on the hill (and maybe your weight and the weight of your kids - do they wrestle?) but losing speed on a mild hill doesn't speak well to the health of your clutches.

Have you confirmed that they're up to par? You won't get the speed nor power you want if they're weak. My drive clutch wasn't closing all the way - quite a bit short of the top in fact, so having it rebuilt pushed my top speed from 14 to 22 mph! My driven clutch was rattling, so I got a new one. Torque is more difficult to measure, but the stronger driven clutch made a noticeable difference with hills and acceleration.

[CCinGA]

Originally Posted by PIB-My-Ride

Defeating your governor means you can ask much more of your engine, which of course, isn't good for longevity. I think nearly everyone here will agree that keeping clean, quality oil in the engine, clean, quality fuel in the tank and the revs below 4,000 are key in getting a reasonably long life from your engine. If I wanted to make sure my engine lasted absolutely as long as possible, I would re-enable the governor. I like speed though, so I decided that revs<4000 was a fair compromise.

It all depends on the hill (and maybe your weight and the weight of your kids - do they wrestle?) but losing speed on a mild hill doesn't speak well to the health of your clutches.

Have you confirmed that they're up to par? You won't get the speed nor power you want if they're weak. My drive clutch wasn't closing all the way - quite a bit short of the top in fact, so having it rebuilt pushed my top speed from 14 to 22 mph! My driven clutch was rattling, so I got a new one. Torque is more difficult to measure, but the stronger driven clutch made a noticeable difference with hills and acceleration.

So it seems if I ziptie.......keep from bouncing off REV limiter, I should be ok. We are in a very hilly neighborhood........Georgia, North of Atlanta. 1 of my kids wrestles and is a state winner, but only in elementary school, so 65 lbs is still ok

The hill to our home is actually a 1/4 mile incline and so far, the cart takes it pretty well. On another note, I need the upgraded heavy duty rear leaf springs....

Thanks for all the info guys......really is appreciated!

[PIB-My-Ride]

Have you confirmed that your clutches are in good condition? I can pass carts while going uphill...

Re: heavy duty leaf springs, if you were closer, you could have mine. They're total overkill unless you plan to pull on of those Club Car 5th Wheel campers. They ruined the ride and weren't fun to install. I wish I had just added a helper spring.

[CCinGA]

Originally Posted by PIB-My-Ride

Have you confirmed that your clutches are in good condition? I can pass carts while going uphill...

Re: heavy duty leaf springs, if you were closer, you could have mine. They're total overkill unless you plan to pull on of those Club Car 5th Wheel campers. They ruined the ride and weren't fun to install. I wish I had just added a helper spring.

I like that idea! I will have to look into the helper spring! Are their instrcutions or videos showing how to do it? Thanks!!!

[PIB-My-Ride]

I don't know, since I went the HD route. I can tell you that I under-estimated how rough the cart would ride, and what a pain it would be to install them. Apparently it's common for the fwd left bolt (under the battery) to be stubborn, and mine was. I had to cut it off, so the project took 3x as long as I thought it would.

[pachanga90]

For the leafs,either find a stock set and use a long leaf or the main with the eyes cut off,and add it to your springs,or have a spring shop add one for you.Hope this helps.